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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/27/2017 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    Caught a large swarm 6m up a tree 4 weeks ago, and there are 8 frames just like this one, both sides, in the hive and the frames on either end are crammed full of honey and pollen. Top box put on 1 week ago, is about 20% drawn and full of nectar. Didn't spot the queen, but didn't need to...
  2. 3 points
    Common law, is that a swarm of bees is the property of whoever captures it. But. Several times I have had bee swarms removed, after I have boxed them. To me, this is taking a liberty with the common understanding. Most recently, only a couple days ago I was called to a North Shore school to remove a swarm in a tree. The teachers allowed a large crowd of kids to watch, they were fascinated. The bees were completely docile so I even allowed a couple kids to hold a bee on their hand. I told the kids how the bees were wanting to start a new home which is why they were going into the box, and 100 or more kids went home with a whole new appreciation of bees. Because it was a school I wanted to remove every last bee, so left the box there for retrieval after dark. Put a hive bottom board over it to keep the heat of the sun off. Come back after dark, and find the bottom board thrown out of the way, box of bees gone, and clusters of bees scattered around. At least he did not also steal the bottom board, maybe it was the wrong design for him. But what is particularly disgusting about the lowlife who did this, is it was clear the swarm had been boxed by a beekeeper because of the hive equipment. And that after I had done what turned out to be such a good job educating the kids, this moron scatters bees all over the place, in the dark there was no way I could clean them all up, I did not want them causing issues the next day so had to walk around trampling them. I am sure that the next day the kids would all have run over there to see what happened, and they find dead bees all over. Just not the kind of positive imprint I wanted to leave. Although this idiot probably justified this by telling himself a swarm is the property of whoever gets it, to me, that's a step too far if it is clear another beekeeper has boxed it, and is in the process of dealing with it properly. And if the moron who did it is reading this, hope you feel good about yourself, your stolen bees, and the dissapointment you have caused to the kids who saw the dead bees. And, the only way you could have known about this swarm is if a kid told you. Kids talk, and if word gets back to me who you are, you will be publicly named and shamed. Think about that.
  3. 2 points
    That’s crazy isn’t it? A few weeks ago we were all saturated and the weather was appalling. It always happens up here in the Waikato at least, when it rains for months on end you end up with a long dry. I am watering the veggie garden every second day now. My parents down in Levin said that they are on water restrictions already.
  4. 2 points
  5. 2 points
    Swarms are amazing...just wish some would stick around long enough to be hived.
  6. 2 points
    At my place grows common dogwood ( Cornus sanguinea), which honey smells as mice piss.. So heavy.. By some time is said that ugly smell evaporate and is " pleasant" to eat. Once I had little of it and get rid off it asap, I was surprised why someone would buy it ( tastes are really different). When we have strong flows - for example wild cherry, whole apiary smells on wild cherries ( due to bees working honey and pollen of it in the hives), same with willow, etc.. I am pretty in wilderness and there are no other " civilisation" smells which can spoil the enjoyment.
  7. 2 points
    Taste is a very personal thing but also one of perception. It wasn't that long ago that manuka was almost exclusively used to feed back to the hives. The perception was that was all it was good for. If you have a (different) honey then give it a fancy name or call it rare or exotic and charge twice as much.Kamahi varies a lot between different related species but I find it quite pleasant and it is very sought after as an additive as it gives a distinct honey flavour even in quite minute amounts.
  8. 2 points
    Did you see this classified? https://www.nzbees.net/classifieds/item/14-afb-checks/
  9. 2 points
    for a first season let the hive get big. while its possible to split a 2 box hive, beginners almost always over estimate how strong the hive is and end up creating weak nucs that struggle. assuming double brood box hive, i would put an excluder on and put a super on. then wait untill thats full of bees. that lets it build up to a decent size. it also gives it time top prep the box you are going to use for the split. (especially as its probably not drawn out yet). with on site splits the general rule is to move the queen. in short you move the parent hive and leave the nuc behind. brood helps retain bees, all excess bees will fly back to the old hive site. so bees from parent fly 'back' to the nuc. so the more brood you have in the parent the better. the nuc gets all the field bees. it doesn't need much brood, a couple of frames (with eggs if you want emergency cells). so with double brood hive, shift whole hive to new spot a few meters away and point in different direction. put new base down in old hive location. put the super off the hive on the new base. (its full of bees which helps a lot ). take two frames of brood, shake all bees off to ensure no queen is on it, check there is no queen on them, put them into super thats on the new base. return two spare frames to the double brood. put 2nd box on the new hive. this gives you old hive in new place with old queen and most of the brood but lacking most of the bees. this will soon catch up as that brood hatches and queen keeps laying. make sure it has food as it has no field bees it won't be able to collect anything for a while. the nuc is in the old hive location, has a few frames to help stop bees drifting and provide queen cells. but it has all the field bees. this will usually pull in plenty of honey. the reason for the 2nd box on it is to house all the field bees. its bee numbers will decline until new queen gets up and running. hopefully the end result is two fairly equal hives. the catch is emergency queens take longer than putting in mated queen or using a cell. so the nuc can decline a fair amount before it gets going. hence it pays to start with a much larger hive. once queen is up and running you may need to swap the hives around to equalize them a bit. @Kiwimana posted a bit about an extra thing you can do. that is, a day before you split, shift your two brood frames up into the super. then next day split. that allows nurse bees to be on those brood frames when you split.
  10. 1 point
    Swarms are amazing. These girls hived Thursday afternoon onto 10x FD foundation. Took a peek this afternoon. All but one outside face fully drawn in three days. I moved that frame in one and gave them another box of foundation to work on Great big healthy looking italian queen. Loads of eggs. Tidy wings. Good movement. Still has all her fluff. Probably emerged late last summer. I May not requeen this one.
  11. 1 point
    I’ve noticed on a couple of hives that where there’s been a plastic frame beside a wooden frame the bees have drawn from the foundation wooden frame to right inside the cavity of the plastic frame. They seem to rather draw out the wooden ones much more than plastic! I’m thinking of going all wooden frames now, any experiences or views on this?
  12. 1 point
    @M4tt I thought I must have someone else's weather, hot dry and windless, but it sounds like everyone's the same .
  13. 1 point
    Well goodness me, my hives have gone from being on the brink of starving to a full on flow. The doubles that were really strong a few weeks ago I put a third box on to give more room are now full of honey and all frames two thirds capped, and then there's the brood frames...a mess.
  14. 1 point
    Win a few , lose a few...
  15. 1 point
    Been doing that at work parking area but the bees in TA were only interested any tidbits of syrup and wax.
  16. 1 point
    48 hrs. bayvarol will kill +90% of mites within 48hrs. as there is no brood hatching there is no point in being linger..
  17. 1 point
  18. 1 point
    o yes i forgot. i got them mixed up .......doh. https://www.nzbees.net/forums/topic/11155-bayvarol/?page=4&tab=comments#comment-173294 "Bayer has very high quality standards which include testing of product from all batches before it is released for sale. About a month ago, we had 2 batches fail quality release in Germany, where it is made. The issue was too much active ingredient on the strips. Too much active ingredient could have a potential impact on hive health and honey residues. We take the quality, safety and effectiveness of our products very seriously, so we cannot release product for sale that is not within the normal product specification. When the initial batches failed, we implemented a contingency plan to make more and get it here via airfreight. At that time we had enough stock to meet demand, until the new product arrived. Last week we were told it had also failed quality release and we immediately informed Ecrotek. Ecrotek and Bayer plan stock well in advance, but the quality issue meant we had little remaining stock on hand. Ecrotek normally order stock from us as they need it so they had very little inventory also. It is Bayer's fault that Bayvarol is out of stock, not Ecrotek's"
  19. 1 point
    You need to park your ute on the drive for the day with boxes and frames on board, that works best for me
  20. 1 point
    In my experience Bayvarol has less effect on the bees than varroa does. I have never lost a hive to Bayvarol.
  21. 1 point
    Sometimes it happens and the bees will not draw comb
  22. 1 point
    Can you provide the source of this please ?
  23. 1 point
    I started last year with one nuc, then two, then a swarm and now I am running 13 hives. Don't underestimate the gear you will need.
  24. 1 point
    There's a difference between taking the lid off for 30 seconds & easing a couple of strips in or out & spending 15 minutes minutely examining the hive.
  25. 1 point
    Personally I think it's getting worse as I have heard of it happening to others too. Years ago I used to leave boxed swarms in public places and never had an issue. But seems to me like "bee mania" is now at a cyclical top, and beginning a decline.
  26. 1 point
  27. 1 point
    Another nice queen laying well. It has so far been a very nice some what delayed start to spring but the last four weeks have been so kind to us and the bees. Weather has been really good for mating. This girl is one that is on the one varroa treatment cycle plan now into four years.
  28. 1 point
    Hi happy to help if you can't find anyone closer. Ph Diane on 0210313690
  29. 1 point
    There are quite a few flowers the bees ignore , I grow lots of flowers and I have noticed that some they have no interest in. I am growing San Pedro cactus for the honey. My beek friend down the road has lots . It flowers when rata does and makes a nice blend and stops rata setting hard . Rata ends up looking like kremelta.
  30. 1 point
    I think you should email and ask why they trespassed on your site and why you where not contacted for you side of the story. As our country side gets swallowed by lawn they will learn it's not much fun eating grass. We look at buying that paddock that's now cardboard houses before the quake but didn't because it was a swamp and to close to town hind site ay
  31. 1 point
    We had a phone call around 10pm the other night. Someone telling us there was a ute parked next to one of our sites and a bright light up in the hive area. It's about a half hour drive away and as we raced up all I could think about was how devastated I'd be having to write off all the work I've put into building these hives. Lucky for us it was just some pig hunters poaching. It made me feel even more sorry for beeks that do have hives stolen.
  32. 1 point
    Welcome to the forum @Nina P !
  33. 1 point
    It's exactly what we did to our backyard after Emma was diagnosed as allergic at 2yo. Sprayed out all clover and flowering lawn weeds, and took out any flowering plants. Meant she could have free access to the backyard like any other kid. Now that she's 7, being desensitised and old enough to handle being around bees better, the garden is making a comeback. It's called personal responsibility. More people should try it.
  34. 1 point
    So sorry to hear this Alex. Stealing a guys livelihood is about as lowlife as it gets.
  35. 1 point
    I probably recounted the tale of hives we lost, but I'll tell it again as it always makes me chuckle. Thirty something hives stolen, and found a few months later in the bush above Springs Junction. We went over to retrieve them and called the local cop to witness the deed. A few weeks later the Beeman went to check his hives at Springs Junction .... only some lowlife had lifted them. He went down to Reefton to report the theft and was asked for his name and address. He was then informed that he was being arrested for the theft of beehives, and that anything he said could be used in evidence against him .....
  36. 1 point
    Stuff rejected my comment I made below the article. I just made out my case and points of view. Perhaps they didn't appreciate me saying "Who do I make the invoice out to at Stuff when my hives get stolen as you guys clearly advertised where they are." Well done media for not listening to my point of view and taking photos of my hives without permission, seems a bit rude?
  37. 1 point
    When heating honey just remember that honey can be damaged by heat. It's a time\temperature thing. The higher the heat the less time you have before significant changes occur in the honey. For practical purposes granulated honey has to be heated before it can be processed just don't heat any more or any longer than necessary. To obtain a fine granulated honey add some fine-grained starter honey and then you need to keep it cool . I think from memory it's around 10 to 12°. A fridge is too cold. It also needs to be stored at reasonably cool temperatures. Leaving it in your warm shed over summer will cause the grain to become course over time. Some honeys naturally granulate courser than others. You can make your own starter honey by getting some fine-grained honey, mixing it with liquid honey and stirring regularly while keeping in a cool place. If you have liquid honey and want to stop it granulating then keep it frozen.
  38. 1 point
    Thanks for the advice guys, I’m happpy this hive is just a failed (no queen generated) split. And I’ll put the box above the brood of my strong hive
  39. 1 point
    first up, only do this if the hive you're splitting really is strong. Two full depth boxes *can* be strong, if every frame is drawn, there's brood through 10+ frames, plenty of stores, and the boxes are both boiling with bees. If this isn't the case, then wait until it's a strong three box hive then split. For context, i did a walkaway split with even numbers of frames/bees to each daughter hive about a fortnight ago. The daughter hive with the emergency queen cells had them on two frames when i checked after a week, and was strong enough to split into two more hives - one for each emergency queen cell frame. move both hives. For best results with walkaway splits split brood and stores evenly between the two daughter hives, have one hive a metre left of the original hive and the other a metre right. The rationale here is that the field bees will come home, find home is missing, and about evenly distribute themselves between the two daughter hives. Don't worry about finding the queen. About a week after the split, inspect both hives. One will have emergency queen cells, the other plenty of fresh eggs and larvae. Then you know what's going on. Leave the one with the queen cells alone for 3-4 weeks, manage the other as normal. I've done a few splits taking this approach, it's worked great. edit: regarding your second question. The daughter hive without the queen will build up a bunch of stores as they will have a brood break = all the nectar coming in will go towards honey rather than a big percentage of it going towards making new bees. Original hive will barely slow down if it was strong enough in the first place.
  40. 1 point
    Interesting. So they chopped down the natural barrier that would have saved them from poopocalypse. All together now, hmmm.... So if they reinstated those trees (or hedge) on their boundary then in a few years time all would be rosy.
  41. 1 point
    Easy to attach, I just drilled a couple small holes through both the frame and the jenter and screwed in some self tapping screws. Re the yellow cup holders I don't use them they are just too big and clunky, have attached a pic of a cell bar I made, with one failed cell still in it. The larval plugs just go straight in. As you mentioned, getting them out after the cells are finished is tricky, so I made the tool pictured. It's a hole punch available from Bunnings or probably any hardware outlet, and with an electric grinder I took out a bit of the bottom lip, so it can slide around the plastic plug, then squeeze and gently push the cell out of the hole in the bar.
  42. 1 point
    When the landowner of the block next to my dads land came knocking for consent to subdivide he was told the only way dad would give consent was if there was a clause written up in the sales agreements of each section that bees had the right of free and undisturbed passage over all proposed sections. so my dad can still have his queenraising nucs and hives there with no comeback about any bee problems.
  43. 1 point
    Headed out to this apiary yesterday arvo to check on things...the 2 FD brood box hives have and are bringing in good loads of nectar. The first 3/4 hive was from an overwintered nuc with a queen from a breeder.It swarmed cos I was too late and didn't keep up,so its on the rebuild. The furtherest 3/4 hive has taken awhile to pick up ,through lack of bees and my rough handling of Queenie during early spring.A new one has been bom and layingll...but excluder was put on and its first honey super with newly waxed foundation. All bar one hive,received a honey super.I'm happy.
  44. 1 point
    I recon a good safe dose is 25 grams OA in 25 grams GL in 5 strips 200mm x 25mm in size each, spread around the Brood nest with one placed smack in the middle. The next box up can have the same or one less. I believe that this is most effective if done as the hive is growing, so best in early hives, later splits or entering winter. It stands to reason that you are better off to nip a mite problem in the bud than try and kill them in a huge hive. The robust nature of the synthetic strips is more suited to treating strong hives
  45. 1 point
    Too PC, tell those people to join the real world and get out of fairy land. Ive told the neighbors kids that wether I had bees or not they’d still have bees on their lawn stinging them because bees fly a long way. If a kid can get it an adult should be able to.
  46. 1 point
    I agree. But if they are aggrieved about bees visiting their property wouldn't that be a reasonable request?
  47. 0 points
    Driving up the road a few days ago , I saw a swarm heading into a concrete cover in the ground next to a power pole . I pulled over and actually caught the queen , but had no gear with me . So I left them to it . Today I went back and retrieved them . It’s absolutely massive ( not) and there were grubs amongst the comb . I’ve brought them home and merged them with another swarm that had a drone laying queen
  48. 0 points
    It's all about standing doing nothing idly watching while something else slaves it's bum off
  49. 0 points
    Hangihangi honey can stink a bit and would be a likely candidate at this time of year. Ragwort is another stinker but in the autumn. Purple Ragwort flowers this time of year but I've never had bees near it so I don't know if it's a candidate. AFB can certainly stink but hives have to be pretty bad before it is noticeable. Different nectures each have their own distinct smell and as long as you're confident it's not AFB I wouldn't worry. Some stinky honeys can taste quite nice once ripe and a few that smell nice aren't. Worst honey of ever come across was from the Taupo area. No idea what it was but it smelled and tasted like an open tin of sardines that had been left in turned off fridge for a month.
  50. 0 points
    If your tight for room You can split and site both hives almost touching each other side by side but just do it so the centre of original hive entrance is the 2inch gap between both hives, you will get excessive back up of returning foragers for a while as the confused bees see double but they will choose a side. Perhaps a few more to the queenright side.. to work perfectly both boxes etc should be the same colour etc, it can be interesting seeing them drift to the side with the parents painted broodbox that they recognise. Just remember always split queenless half stronger with capped brood...( brood can't fly back to parent) ///WARNING/// splitting beehives becomes addictive... very addictive, you only need to try the stuff once and some people are hooked for life, even spending thousands on a shed to store all their 'gear' in and big trucks to transport it around.
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