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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/06/17 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Ok, anyone's got a truck to show?? This one is pretty cute, but not sure it's practical (Note" I am a chick, cute things MATTER too!!)
  2. 3 points
    Not sure why they need to be treatment free - if indeed resistant. Send the varroa to us @tristan if you can sugar shake them off and chuck in a small tube of water - we have developed some prototype tests for those resistant markers. Just checking a new assay currently
  3. 3 points
    This is the one I built.
  4. 2 points
    Of course - shareholders can ask very awkward questions at shareholder meetings and demand that the board address breaches of their own policies. Board directors take a very dim view of being made to look like idiots by their staff!! Really??? I'm sorry I didn't realise -I'll shoot over to Wanganui and shift those hives straight away then!! As a shareholder I expect the company to operate according to their own policies- which they haven't done in this case. However I can demand an explanation and resolution.
  5. 2 points
    I read it as if the queen was one month old so may have only been laying for a few days or a week. Hope she isnt one of mine sent to kaitaia LOL Let me know if it is and Ill replace her
  6. 2 points
    Well, if you don't want Customs charges, you could buy 1 flow frame at a time. The idea of 2-3 3/4 boxes and a fd box with flow frames is a great one. If I could or wanted, that's how I would set it up. The Flow people have their whole set up in 8 frame boxes as they are targeting the American hobbyist public and 8 frame boxes are lighter than 10 frames, and you can buy equipment quite easily. Flow frames are plastic, and there are hoffmann frames that are plastic too. You have to wax them or buy them pre-waxed, but you can't pre-waxed flow frames as they are imported in the country and all honey and wax imports are prohibited. But some people don't bother waxing their hoffmann frames, just chuck them in and and wait for the bees to get desperate. I manage 2 flow hives, the going has been slow and we haven't harvested any honey yet, but I am pretty sure we'll get there. The jury is still out. And I do love gadgets and having a play with different toys.
  7. 1 point
    Saw the brief snippet.....looks like a case of " your bees are going into my manuka! "...should raise a few hackles.
  8. 1 point
    Hi There we are doing a run of crypto will be milling out to 25 mm thick and 200 or 250 wide. length will be 2-3m. putting through round 20 stems more or less. price will be $4 plus gst p/l/m. Can supply a full gst invoice. Pick up only. Location waihi. Cryptomeria- great straight grain timber. Nice to work with. very light and above ground durable. Dries very quickly but without shrinkage .Many of our boxes are made from crypto and they are already 8 yrs old and no need for paint. First in first served. If you would like the whole order then please specifiy and we can mill to your requirements
  9. 1 point
    They're having you on, the thousand buck ones aren't all that.
  10. 1 point
    Thank you, I will move them. 3 days I hope so. I've heard it's a good idea (especially as a nubee) to go into a hive with a purpose, get it done and not cock around more than you have to. So todays goal was to shake off bees and get good pictures. I did notice eggs at the time, lots of larvae, spotty brood, i did open a few suspect cells,one had honey, one chewed cap was a baby bee emerging, the one I posted a pic of stuck out like a sore thumb, looked chalky but was slimy with a varroa in there too. I feel like a hand fisted gorilla using my hive tool to poke in cells, and I thought at the time if I see what I think may be afb I need a matchstick. So i'll make sure I always have a tool handy to poke into cells and stir up afb soup.:eek: Thanks everybody. I think we have a pretty clear consensuses that this nuc had an unacceptable amount of varroa. He seemed like a nice fella but I wouldn't buy bees from him again and I will mention so in tardme feedback.
  11. 1 point
    Ha ha, no way Comvita is chasing thistle honey - that was a red herring!! I'm a Comvita shareholder and will defend them when they are treated/accused unfairly which they often are but in this particular case they (and the landowner) are well and truly in the wrong. From memory they said there was 20ha of manuka belonging to the landowner they deal with. By their own stated policy they should only have 20 hives there as the report suggested. By placing 200 is simply taking the p**s. Very surprised and disappointed that CEO Scott Coulter didn't front up!!
  12. 1 point
    Propolis dissolves in ethanol, wax doesn't. Photo of a wee jar of homemade propolis tincture. The white stuff in the bottom is the remains of some wax/propolis mix after the propolis dissolved out. Ethanol courtesy of my mother-in-law's pot still.
  13. 1 point
    Thanks Tristan that's a useful link to explain it. I had wondered why it sometimes does not immediately engage, now I know. I never like the wheels spinning or over rev when in the wet, and your link explained there has to be a 100 rpm difference between the 2 before it will engage, that knowledge will make me a better driver of it.
  14. 1 point
    Yes a good hive to try the treatment on, the results are compelling, thanks for sharing it certainly opens up a whole new option.
  15. 1 point
    That one frame of good brood pattern has at least 3 suspect brood cells as @Alastair pointed out. 10 points if you can spot which frame this is on. Smoosh
  16. 1 point
    I agree and lets not go there. We exchange our exceptional products for their half baked rubbish. Trump is a dangerous man but he can see this happening in America and has vowed to stop it. If American trucks weren't so large Id have one. Probably a Ford 250
  17. 1 point
    No idea @M4tt. I am watching. This is a pretty good hive that is 6 boxes high. 2 of brood and 4 boxes of honey. Which is a pretty good effort for this season.
  18. 1 point
    Brilliant!! Thanks guys!!!
  19. 1 point
    Without being picky @Alastair , neither the Toyota nor any other 4x4 Ive ever seen has had front Torsion rods fail like your ones have. The point here is that its not only the design that is important but also the manufacturers ability to actually build to a specified design. It makes me laugh when I read about a chinese copy of a Mercedes engine for example. That means nothing. Copying the measurements of a design is not the same as copying the design because the copycat probably wont have the technology to copy the metallurgy, the tolerances, or the processes. So getting back to the topic here, one short test period isnt enough to compare anything with a Cruiser. The longer and more grueling the test, the less expensive the Toyota becomes and more expensive the competing vehicle becomes. If the test is long enough and tough enough the Toyota's and the competing vehicles actual costs will cross over so that the Toyota becomes the less expensive vehicle.
  20. 1 point
    I've just brewed up just enough goop ( 53 ml glyc, 36 gms ox, 20 ml h2o ) for two bamboo reusable towels & shoved one in each hive.
  21. 1 point
    Remarkable I gather it's now killing mites coming out of brood ? That would account for the consistent mite fall
  22. 1 point
    Day 7 I cleaned up the board and drew new lines on it so that I could count the varroa. 865 so that is pretty impressive. Today's loading would be the same as the rest of the nmf each day. so around 7000 mites to date. Maybe someone can tell us/me what the chance of survival would have been for this hive.
  23. 1 point
    I've seen Queens lay multiple or double eggs when they first start laying but not after one month. What is the brood pattern like? Because if she is laying poorly then the brood pattern is likely to be spotty. The bigger concern really is do you have laying workers? Because laying workers are the most likely to be laying multiple eggs in many cells. So back to the brood again - is there quite alot of drone brood? Once you have the above info then I'd try and find the Queen. If no Queen it is probably laying workers. If you find the Queen, and the laying pattern is poor, still multiple eggs in cells, she needs to be replaced asap either by killing her and letting the bees raise another Queen or introducing a cell. If it is laying workers you need to either introduce young brood once a week for three weeks or tip the hive out and let the bees re-house themselves in other hives, and re-distribute the frames amongst the hives. (after doing an AFB check). Good luck!
  24. 1 point
    What I done with my flow frames when the bees seemed to not want to go up on them for a start was I sprayed a little bit of sugar syrup on them but only a few ventured up so then a few days later I got a small block of wax and rubbed that across the frames and from then on the bees were into it. It does take them a little while longer to wax all the joints etc first time but after the first harvest it is much quicker for them to fill the cells. One thing that interested me was when I done my harvest of the flow frames the caps on the cells were still all intact so the bees were not disturbed at all.
  25. 1 point
    A tiny one with a minuscule toy blower type impeller would work brilliant for sugar shakes, imagine if I could suck 300 bees directly in the jar!!
  26. 1 point
    It is always interesting what the media comes up with, especially keeping in mind that every piece of news relating to Manuka and foraging bees has been overdone. Again and again. Let's see what happens.
  27. 1 point
    Yes, it runs well. Unfortunately for you it runs in Hawke's Bay.
  28. 1 point
    I think it will be on tonight, 7.30 on one.
  29. 1 point
    I just melt everything all together, sieve it, and pour in into a mold then turn it out and hose the crap off it once it's set. I don't really know why you'd add water to it, if there's honey in it it is separate from the wax and will sit in the bottom of the mold, you don't have to use water or stir it. I only ever use cold water with wax or it makes a melty mess.
  30. 1 point
    Yes, but we aren't so interested in the Bee, who is just transport. It's the mites that need the right dose.
  31. 1 point
    Just a little update.... the wood ash knocked the ants out right away, and seemed to do a good job of keepng them away, even up to a few weeks later so far, ..without re-applying the ash. I'm gonna keep on with it, when need be, since I have plenty of wood ash. There are some decades old ant colonies not far away on and around some 100+ year old Oak trees that surround the yard. I only used the ash around the legs of solo behive stands I built with screen bottom boards built in. I haven't used any wood ash in the screen bottom boards direcdtly under the hives because, there's been no pests. In early January, (mind you this in California, ending mild winter at that time) ... I had seen a small amount of small hive beetles that popped up over winter when populations went a little low...and I filled foil casserole dishes with veg oil, and put those in the screen bottom boards, and in combination with early spring and mild temps here,...all hives starting populate well, and as of a month ago,..zero hive beetles. I've never even treated for mites, as when I've done inspections checking a few larvae, and bees themselves,...no mites at all, since August, when I started the apiary. I even use a magnifier to really look at the bees up close and the bees and brood are mite free. I had pondered putting wood ash in the screen bottom boards under the hives in the event beetles pop up when it starts to get hot (becuase oil gets rancid or smelly and beetles start to avoid the screen bottom boards once dead beetles might start sitting in the oil for even a few days.) So far seems like the hives are getting strong enough,..they are keeping any pests at bay and looking healthy, populating away, and started to store lots of pollen and nectar. I do think the ash could be a good preventative for mites, working like diatamaceous earth, but I'm thinking, do I really need to run prevenative measures, because the hives are looking pretty good, and populations seem to be keeping the hives clean and healthy so far,..., and unless the weather turns, I try to inspect the hives no more or less than once every seven days to minimise stess on the bees. I did have this thought...would you want wood ash blowing around up in your honey stores? Not that a lot of wind is going to run through the hive, but there is air circulating in some spots and you know how easy ash can blow around. The hive stands do elevate the hives just enough to make it easier to work them. I can only say, if the majority of honey is in supers above, maybe not so much an issue, and I'm leaning towards not using excluders. We're not even talking a dozen hives, so it's not a big apiary. I also had a random thought,..I know that wood ash, while being used to supplement or ammend soil, can make it go maybe too basic sometimes, for some things you might be growing...but that it contains so many useful essential minerals that comes from the burnt wood,...essential minerals, some say we can't even get in our food we consume any longer and that the wood ash is one of the few ways to put it back into plants you might want to surround your apiary with or from crops you want to grow to consume. Something like 90 or so essential minerals people need for good health....so I have been thinking if i do use the wood ash close to the honey production,..is it bad, or could it actually add some positive addittion to the honey, if it can get any of the essential minerals? Not sure...probably only can benefit the plants and in turn the nectar that comes out of them. I would just rely (in this small quanity i'm working with) on the good old fashioned taste test and see,...well how does the honey taste?
  32. 1 point
    Don't forget the all important beekeepers bible..." Practical Beekeeping in NZ" as well as AFB yellow book and Varroa green book...these can all be obtained through Ecrotek
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