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Showing content with the highest reputation on 27/02/17 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Well My first harvest from my flowhive went like a dream. Yes I had checked the hive before taking any honey from it and everything was fine. I had 4 of the flow frames 100% capped so harvested those and the other 2 about 80% ready so will harvest those 2 later. We just opened the frames a 1/4 at a time and we had no problems with honey leaking etc it all went perfect. Was amazed how settled the bees were while we were harvesting it. Would have had about 4 bees come around to the back of the hive to have a nosy then they went on their way. Honey was a clover blend and would have taken about an hour for the 4 frames finish flowing. So yes it does work as it was supposed too and I am a happy camper.
  2. 3 points
    Ok so its a question i Have been wondering for a while i am curious how many Beekeepers out there are synthetic free these days, whether commercial or not. perhaps what you are doing to achieve this
  3. 3 points
  4. 3 points
    I have Dion's number. I will send you his number in a pm.
  5. 2 points
    Had a hive with one FD frame 3/4 was capped drone. I used the fork and removed the drones. Lots of young varroa at the bottom of the cells. Do these young varroa survive if put back in the hive or the bees will chew them up. I have put that frame in the freezer. Left for the birds to clean up away from hives.
  6. 2 points
    I could not agree more. I have hives at home in Gisborne which really isn't that different to Hawkes Bay and I wouldn't dream of feeding them anything, I actually find feeding weak hives during dearth periods when there are a lot of bees out and about looking for food can be quite risky, they can end up being robbed out completely and killed. If the hive is not weak, give them raw sugar and if it has more than 1 box of bees it will work it just fine if they want it they will eat it and you can give them some more. It doesn't go off unless it gets wet so it can last for months until the bees need it, you can make your own basic top feeder, and nothing is going to rob them for it. They probably have enough stores if they are in 1 and 3/4 full boxes and have been for some time, but raw sugar is good insurance if you give it to them soon enough and they are strong enough to manage it.
  7. 2 points
    Oh I see. Now I know what you mean, it's a sub folder/group. Cripes. That'll keep the blighters out what! Good luck @Alastair
  8. 2 points
    Dion's username here at NZBees is @Kneeride . Good guy, wouldn't hesitate to recommend him. If you can't get hold of him let me know and I'll get his number from my other half.
  9. 1 point
    Hello fellow beekeepers, my name is Sarah Cross, I am Dr Mark Goodwins Reserach Associate at Plant and Food Research Ltd. We are conducting a trial on the possibility of resistant varroa here in NZ. We are requesting a sample of 300 bees from a hive that has NOT been treated for varroa yet this season. If you are interested in helping us please email me at sarah.cross@plantandfood.co.nz with your name, postal address, and the general area of the hive you would like to take the bees from, and i will send you out a container and return courier bag. Thank you very much for your help.
  10. 1 point
    This month's meeting was not too far out of Katikati, on a warm and sultry afternoon. Herman and Natalie have roughly half a dozen hives they keeps for pollination in an avocado orchard on a lifestyle block, and intends to split some to increase the count slightly. While the main hives are double broods this year has not been particularly kind and the hives are not particularly strong or well provisioned. Taken together, it should be possible to take a couple of nucs out, but it's getting a bit last minute and there could be a cost trying to take them though the winter. There could be quite a bit of 'intervention' required to see them through. All the main hives are fitted with plastic queen excluders that have an entrance-way integrated. I have come across these more often lately, and I struggle to find advantages that out-way the disadvantages. Fitted to conventional wooden hives they appear to be a pending disaster if you are moving hives, because there is hardly any friction preventing the boxes from slipping - even when quite heavily propolised. Like other plastic designs they are prone to distortion, mess with the bee-space producing bur-comb and more distortion, and peeling them away from whichever box they are half attached to doesn't make friends with your bees. If you are making splits, making a Demaree, or blanketed in snow I can see a top entrance might matter, otherwise I have them in my book of pointless fads. You're welcome to try and change my mind. One consequence of the second entrance is that exposes the hive to robbing, and recruits extra guards to defend it. Neither of these things are good. At this time of year I wouldn't have been surprised to have experienced some robbing as we worked through the hives, but actually there was none even when working through quite slowly and handing frames around. We looked through one small hive very closely, sparked by people telling me they could see the eggs when there were none in the frame! The bees were all well behaved, and the day hot enough to make doing without a bee-suit a really good idea. I am always very cautious about initiating robbing, at this time of year especially - it can get very nasty. I make sure the smoker works, all the time, I carry hessian sacks to cover boxes, I expect to need a full suit and veil, and have gloves handy somewhere. When you arrive look around the hives for bees investigating box joints, screens, lids and they like; if they are you need to be cautious. You might expect flight activity to be lower, and less 'purposeful'. Bees are robbing because there is nothing to gather and they are not occupied foraging. I smoke all the hives, not just the one I am working on, and go in with a plan and no nonsense. Don't leave boxes or combs lying around, cover them, and if you must drip honey make sure you drip it into the hive not all over the grass. Either way, it is not a good idea. For some jobs a water mist can be very useful, and helps to keep the bees on the comb rather than driving them to fly. If it turns out to be a nice day you can throw back the veil and enjoy it, if you create a battle you need to call it a day quickly. Close everybody down and go home, it's not a time to grin and bear it. The meeting wrapped up with tea and cake, and an offer to go and watch the harvesting of some honey from Flow frames just along the road. Hopefully we will hear how that went. Next month's meeting will be at the Open Day for the TECT activity park so perhaps we'll catch up then.
  11. 1 point
    Hi, first-time posting. First of all, it may help newbies to post a message if they can actually "see" where to post the message. eg change the colouring of the background page or "bold" the outline border. I have been stuck for hours trying to scan old threads and advice on how to post, because I could not see where to type my question. I could only see and type into what appears to be the title, which kept giving me an error message when I hit the "Create Thread" button. Just a but of constructive advice to start with. Now for the real question: We have 3 hives, one of them is angry-nasty, the others are a pleasure. We have been advised to re-queen with a quiet queen, and was told there is a chap on the North Shore of Auckland by the name of Dion Curtin (not sure of the spelling). I have tried to google and search for him but get nothing. Is there anyone out there that has heard of him? I would like a contact number if possible, or of maybe someone else that sells quiet queens?
  12. 1 point
    It's not looking at the bees it's looking at the varroa. The idea is they take samples of bees and check the varroa on them for resistance.
  13. 1 point
    I don't think you have - its empty at the moment.
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
    @Mrs T Thanks for posting. There was so much hype around the hives I am pleased that the frames are doing the job for you.
  16. 1 point
    Thanks for that. I've always been a flow hive sceptic. But I'm pleased it works very cool!
  17. 1 point
    Probably about 11kg but havent weighed it yet. Doesnt seem much but considering our honey flow was half way through before the bees got into gear and used the flow frames. They have a full super of honey under the flow frames as well for their winter feeding. I expect more in the flow frames next season and will harvest the frames as they are ready as it is so easy. They tell me that after the first harvest the bees fill the frames up so much quicker and I can now see why.
  18. 1 point
    Recently with oxalic acid vapouriser. Samsung S7 When the prongs goes through the developing drones in the process..... some don't come out cleanly.
  19. 1 point
    Correct. Now is usually the time honey is taken off and Autumn strips put in, I would like bees from hives BEFORE this Autumn treatment happens. We would like one sample per beekeeper. Thats 300 bees from one hive. I can send you the container and a return courier bag for you to collect and send back
  20. 1 point
    Went into the 3/4 box and lifted the frames today. Decided not to add a box because there is plenty of room for more provisions etc.
  21. 1 point
    Thanks everyone for your help, I have the answer to my question. I must say that as a first-timer in any forum what-so-ever, this is great!
  22. 1 point
    That sounds like a much better option. I have just ordered an endoscope camera to fit on my cell phone. The barrel would be the perfect job for it.
  23. 1 point
    Pretty much, I only use it for combining bees. It gives them something to do. My system is a stream of syrup rather than a spray/misting. I don't use it very often
  24. 1 point
    It's up as a trial, with some restrictions based on account type. I don't need feedback at this stage on the merits, if it's used its used if it's not it'll get put to one side.
  25. 1 point
    Yeah it may become two barrel planters
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