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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/03/16 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    What a wonderful world. You have flow and I am going today 3km uphill on foot through snow to apiaries..
  2. 3 points
    5 foot three....Well I used to be! I am at this stage happy to get to three boxes high. Now I have got two boxes. , Aiming for three. Honey is for my bees this year.I might get some next. You guys with millions of bees have forgotten how many you have... Maybe? Having said that I am on boney dry ground down South. Hey we got 24ml of rain!!!! If my bees make a tower I will buy a step ladder.
  3. 3 points
    When I had Warré hives I had sawdust in the quilt. These ones have 20mm polystyrene, protects from heat in summer and condensation in winter. (y)
  4. 3 points
    they say it is better to remain silent and appear a fool rather than open your mouth and remove all doubt.... but what the hell here goes. I would propose you take the brood frame with the cell and one frame of pollen/nector-honey and put it in a separate Nuc box at a separate site. Then I would wait to see what happens in the parent hive if they make more cells and monitor brood pattern. Meanwhile if the cell hatches and you end up with a laying queen in 5 weeks, great, it has only cost you two frames and you have the option of squashing the new queen and recombining or better still, giving the new queen to a fellow bee club member who wants one. If there is any evidence that the current queen is not working out you could remove that failing queen into another Nuc box and introduce your new mated queen via a cage with candy instead to see if she is any better. Ultimately, you have one strong hive at the end of it with the best queen and have recombined any Nuc's you created along the way. But you retained some options and control and didn't risk the right queen being killed by the wrong queen by chance, until you knew which was which.
  5. 3 points
    We mix 5 litters of formic acid 94% with 1 litter of Melaleuca oil. The liquid that we got is used for varroa treatment. The small gray piece is flolite floral foam. Its size is about 1x3x5cm. We put in in the be hive for 48h then take it out.
  6. 3 points
    Here is some pic of my roof made out of old pellet wood and a cheap peice of ply on top, just had to give everything a good coat of paint because everything is untreated. The 8 blocks under the roof holds the top board loosely in place and the gaps between the blocks are big enough so when you put a match stick under the top cover the is plenty of gap for air to flow, plus the roof sides hang down past the top cover so rain won't get in, another thing that I find handy is I can put the roof on the dirty ground and have a flat platform to put thing on, or turn it over so I can place a hive box on it at a slight angle so the box sits on the edges so I crush minimal bees, and it won't blow off in the wind. That last roof I made, I made it slightly sloping back so water ran off better. This is ok for hobby bee keepers, but I guess commercial guys need to stack heaps of hives in backs of trucks, so a flush fitting roof is better for them in terms of stacking against one another.
  7. 3 points
    While I totally agree with the above list, I have also found that paying for a good piece of kit provides satisfaction every time I use it, where as cheep kit often brings frustration and disappointment every time I use it. This sounds like a good example of knowing when to spend $$$ on the best kit and when to make do.
  8. 2 points
    bearings, food grade grease. chains, vege oil. engine degreaser is better and cheaper than CRC 5.56 for cleaning chains etc.
  9. 2 points
    this my phacelia. these bees are all yellow, they are not my carnolians. these bees are tourists, it is that time of year. i am doing my bit to make visitors feel welcome
  10. 2 points
    I quite agree @berengaria and @Philbee. Consumer marketing, telling BS or just stretching the truth has been going on in one form or another for at least 2000 years. Consuming Manuka honey is not the first and won't be the last product from "Nature" to have "special health benefits" What about deer antler, it's consumed in vast quantities. I'm far more concerned about hive thefts, bad, or NO management practices. And if these sort of things are being done by the large companies and/or their staff then they need to remedy it fast.
  11. 2 points
    My experience with Indians and Chinese is they are even less apt at lifting heavy loads than Kiwis. The other night I unloaded thirteen 3 box hives and two 4 box hives in the middle of the night in the backblocks, packed up the trailer ready to roll home in 28 minutes. Thats 28 minutes from arriving at the yard till leaving the yard. All the hives were around 100kgs or more. There were two of us but the job could have been done by one man in the same time. Having two guys when working at night is safer. So not only do cranes save backs they also save time.
  12. 2 points
    My relief posty was the same last year.so I delivered the pails to the post shop my self.i couldnt expect a elderly woman to lift 30 pails into the van.could of been the end of her.
  13. 2 points
    Actually it's totally the wrong approach. What is really needed are machines that are so dangerous to operate that the idiots we are trying so hard to save from themselves are all wiped out.
  14. 2 points
    With the inclement weather we are having , I was worried that the swarm I caught on tuesday might be going hungry , so I made up a sugar slurry and quickly drizzled a bit along the top of each frame . By the time I finished it was like pigs at a trough with the bees lined up along each side with their tongues out feeding ! It was only a cup of sugar , so probably not enough to make much difference , but it made me feel better anyway ! Looks like they should be able to get out today , so they should be fine .
  15. 1 point
    Last year I acquired a couple of vintage Davidson uncappers with the intention of using the one for parts and getting the other going again. Well with the wet weather over the last couple of days I made a start on the newer of the 2. First an hour with the water blaster to remove the bulk of the wax and crud. Then Several buckets of hot water and CT18 degreaser/detergent and a scrubbing brush followed by more water blasting. I was told the main motor needed replacing however re fixing a loose wire and pressing the reset revealed that the problem was over loading caused by the crud seizing the bearings and chains. Hence the 5.56 head ache.:devil: A can of CRC, a screwdriver to work every seized link free several missing bits of skin a blister or two and did I mention a mean as Head Ache.:sick: I now have the in-feed chain, the main chain, the out-feed chain and the cutter heads all operating again. I still need to re fit the drip trays and the Cappings auger plus another wash with and degreaser/detergent. Question time for those that know. (y) What is the correct lubricant to use on a food grade machine? Bearings and chains? and corrosion prevention? I already know that cold water blasting is the best way to preliminary clean the extractor and cappings spinner and the uncapper will definitely get the same treatment. Any other interesting comments welcome.
  16. 1 point
    Here is a video about using paediatric dose pens
  17. 1 point
    I was told they are a 3 shot deal, guess not. Bear in mind that the helicopter might be busy when you set off your PLB so you might not be off to hospital in minutes.
  18. 1 point
    Love the kiwi ingenuity! I'll try the car battery tho I think.
  19. 1 point
    if brood pattern is good then its probably not queens performance. i would get rid of the queen cell. not at the moment. already got 1000 odd to look after and i like my weekends.
  20. 1 point
    Taupo been good with a strong early bush build up and now a good clover crop. The bush mostly finished but the kanuka is just starting so have left some yards here and there. Clover is good this year and should benefit from this rain however the ground is still dry 50/60mm beneath the surface. Another 12 hours of rain would be nice
  21. 1 point
    Ok, well it's hard to know, I'm only a beginner too, but we have pulled off a similar stunt with 5 new mated queens confirmed from various similar situations recently. However, I would not dare attempt it early in spring. But right now; Jan/Feb could be the easiest time of year to make the most of this 'opportunity'. Part of the reason to put that proposal to the forum was to learn what others thought or would recommend..
  22. 1 point
    It's public domain that Kiwi Bee is a stakeholder in Betta Bees, and yes Betta Bees is developing VSH traits. As the annual reports states Kiwi Bee use "AMS" and AMS can keep track of the queen stock, notes on the queen, her age etc. We are already using AMS to record this info and there are hives maked in the DB as having VSH traits - we will use this data to further select our breeders internally, and I guess this will be passed back to Frans at Betta Bees as well. Corporates aren't all evil, and not everything is marketing spin
  23. 1 point
    Hi Darren, It doesn't matter which frames you moved up, if the bees are short of space they will move up to the next box. If your new boxes have only foundation though, then moving up a couple of full frames will encourage them up. Bees move up through the centre of the hive in preference to the sides. Think of your bees as a sphere, moving up and down the hive as they need more space, food, warmth etc. Most of the action goes on in the centre with the edges being used/filled last. If all the frames are full to the very edge, you need put your next box/es on sooner. I super up rather than under. (Put the new empty supers on top of the filled ones). Partly this is just ease for me, but it also means I can keep track of the order in which my supers are filled. Its a personal choice. With regard to over wintering your bees, I keep one full super on all my hives for winter reserves. This may seem a lot, but I run strong hives and they hit the ground running in spring when I want them to increase in size. It also means I never have to feed sugar or syrup. Again it is personal choice. I would rather my bees had honey than sugar and I don't need the extra work of making up and feeding syrup. Hope that is useful. It sounds like your hives are going well and that's the main thing.
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
    I like the roof @HSV_Darren . Looks much easier than the roofs I am making.
  26. 1 point
    I think there is but i have no proof. Before varroa you could be sure the new queen you introduced into your hive would be there 3 years later now it seems routine to have drone layers, dissapearances and queens that dont lay a single egg.
  27. 1 point
    If I dare to put myself forward and speak as a true hobbyist as per thread title, my hives never get beyond 3 FD high. My spoon swings into action long before first super is full..
  28. 1 point
    I have seen bees get a crop of rewa rewa from 5 mile away. That is miles not kilometres. The Apiarys that were closer definitely did better. I remember one drought season when a large thunderstorm went through an area I had bees. Any hives within 2 miles of the thunderstorms path did a good crop despite sitting amongst apparent desert. Anything further away did what you would expect in those conditions.
  29. 1 point
    I have read in Scotland they tracked bees for 12 km from the hive. Cannot recall reference just now. But MPI and the Food Safety Authority has been dealing with this issue for sometime with the Tutin in Honey Standard. The Food (Tutin in Honey) Standard 2008, section 13 (b) demonstrate that tutu is not significantly present within a 3 kilometre radius of those geographical locations. ( of apiary sites). This was revised by MPI in the Food (Tutin in Honey) Standard 2010, to read section 10 (b) demonstrate that tutu is not significantly present within the predictable range of bee foraging from those geographical locations. (of apiary sites). So even MPI has some difficulty of determining foraging distance from the hive for bees. My best guess is that bees will travel to get food, and that distance depends on food source unavailability closer to the hive.
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