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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/28/2014 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Salaam Mr Abdullah This is indeed an interesting result. I am a Chemist, so can probably assist in some way. If you can post a copy of the test and a photo of the product, that will help. That way I can understand what might be going on a bit better. Thanks
  2. 4 points
    something strange is indeed going on in this hive... 1 - Four days ago you had a bunch of emergency cells, and if no laying queen in the hive then obviously no fresh eggs or larvae less than a few days old. 2 - Yesterday you had yet another emergency queen cell - where could this have come from? you didn't have eggs or larvae in the hive that were young enough for an emergency queen to be drawn. I'd let this hive raise its own emergency queen, although how they're managing to do this is somewhat of a mystery to me... born/hatched/emerged
  3. 3 points
    2nd pic - as is repeated like mantra over here: bees don't know what is meter but surely they know what is milimeter. On a pic I was too slow, when bees were coming out of winter they were faster.
  4. 3 points
    Our 2 big Pohutakawa are in flower in our garden, and have seen the bees working them!!! Very excited to see them in there. Last year was a terrible year for Pohutakawa flowers, hardly got any. BUT I didn't have bees last year, so it never concerned me apart from the lack of beauty!! How one's thinking dramatically changes when you have bees!!!
  5. 2 points
    Ah, Maybe they are closed for xmas. Maybe they have new owners. But they sent me a quote for supplies on Saturday (y) That is service.
  6. 2 points
    Interesting read. Yes I've had issues introducing caged queens as mentioned above. The single biggest thing I did that improved success rate was to make the nuc/splits smaller/weaker. Once the queen is released and laying well it is easy to boost the nuc with an extra frame of capped brood. Just my 2 cents worth.
  7. 2 points
    Yep looks pretty normal to me. One of the reasons I went to single (Jumbo) brood boxes was I didn't like seeing drone brood in the gap between the boxes/frames (2nd picture) And yes if you leave out a frame (in a honey box) you will need to spread the remaining 9 frames evenly so that you get fat combs of honey. Always keep brood frames tight together. (I run 11 frames at 32mm centres in my Jumbo brood boxes and they are always tight together)
  8. 2 points
    I had a similar problem, queenless hive that took a good month before they had a mated queen. By then the one brood box was choked full of honey, so I checker boarded honey/pollen frames with foundation, and moved 5 up to a second box and checker boarded as well. My plan was when they had drawn out foundation and queen has laid in some, I will then add a 3rd box, move most frames of honey up to 3rd, then replace with more foundation, my thinking was to arrange it over time so it ends up like a normal hive again.
  9. 2 points
    As you gain experience you can very often tell if a hive has a virgin in it by the way the bees behave on the comb and what the brood area of the comb looks like, even so we will always run the bees through an excluder to check for virgins before installing a queen in a queenless hive.
  10. 2 points
    I think you probably have a virgin in your hive. Give it another week and you might have a laying queen
  11. 2 points
    Rewarewa is cranking at home; which is pretty late flowering this year. 5 finger got the flow going in late spring. Manuka (of which there is a limited number) is flowering and bees are ignoring it for the Rewarewa.
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
    I think they are open through Christmas except for public holidays (stats) that's better than it used to be
  14. 1 point
    This is what I found this morning...happy the bees are going great, but what bldy mess..this is one of my first nuc boxes I ever made and haven't got around to fixing bee space yet..
  15. 1 point
    you can see the frames sitting below the top of the box, add in the bee space the excluder or top box has and thats whats causing the layer of drone cells. check the bottom of the box, if the frames are flush with the bottom then you have USA spec boxes. if there is bee space at the bottom then the boxes are just badly made or made for a metal spacer (not sure of they make them any more!). any gaps like leaving a frame out and bees can make comb in the space. especially if the frames are not drawn out, even worse if they are plastic. seen them draw out perfect comb and none of it is touching the plastic foundation!
  16. 1 point
    Yes it's a mystery, hence why I promoted the question if sometimes other factors are at play, such as varroa or virus load? I could also tell it was queenless as the moment I opened the hive they were humming very loudly and continued to hum for hours later, they were certainly upset. Regarding points:- 1 - Plenty of young larvae from first queen failure since the split was only 2 days old, then queen only took 1 day to emerge and failed, so with a 3 day old split, there was plenty of young larvae left. 2 - The queen cell came from a frame of capped brood I introduced when i inserted my second caged queen, so that explains why they had a slight second opportunity. Perhaps this foreign frame may of upset the process? Anyway I have turned this failure into an opportunity to begin my first ever attempt at queen rearing, so I've turned disappointment into excitement. I will graft from a hive with the same batch of queens that I lost above, so at least I can conserved half her genetics. The off spring will be half Beeline Italian and half local, who knows, it may end up better this way. Thanks for the encouragement!
  17. 1 point
    Mother nature is going to keep sitting you on your bum until you learn your lessons...and you're not going to learn them all this season, the test is time..
  18. 1 point
    #3. Generally the bees will not move down. I would make up the best possible brood box with a frame of pollen/honey on the outside edges then fill the other 8 frames with all stages of brood. Then put the manky frames above the brood. The bees will clean this up as they require and possibly fill it with honey. When you like you can cycle those frames out of the hive and clean them up.
  19. 1 point
    @beefree It definately sounds like you have a virgin queen in the hive. I have a nuc that I thought was queenless so to be sure I added a frame of brood, came back 5 days later and the whole frame was capped with no queen cells, I had another good look throght the 5 frames and couldnt find the queen (I looked 3 times on that occasion). So another frame of brood was added, 5 days later checked.....no queen cells???? another look through the hive and there she is a virgin queen no bigger than a nurse bee with a short stumpy abdomen. This may well be the situation you are facing. Dont buy another queenuntil you have added a frame of brood to confirm whether the hive is queen right or not, be careful also as soon you may have a laying queen if indeed the hive is queenless, and then you will have the same problem of queen rejection.
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