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Spring walk-away split in Auckland


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@backyardbeesif you don't get a queen or cell then you need lots of young bees in the queenless split. I always move the queenright colony few meters away, and I leave the queenless split in its

Don't do anything at all for another month ! Too early for Q mating yet. You've got tons of time to do a split. Mid summer's a good time for reliable Qs   In my view this business of getting hives

Good advice from @Kiwi Bee to help the colony expand

@Lee Taylor your nuc sounds to be fain. I will add one new frame from margin to center and the bees will build the comb fast and the queen will lay eggs into that. After one week I will do the same with another frame. Meanwhile the feeding will not stop - the bees will use the syrup to build "that new frame".

 

Thanks for that @Kiwi Bee , I will have a look at that when I check the syrup next. They have been busy with a couple of frames so it will be interesting to see how they are going.

 

Fain could be the new "buzz" word. Pun intended

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Thanks for that @Kiwi Bee , I will have a look at that when I check the syrup next. They have been busy with a couple of frames so it will be interesting to see how they are going.

 

Fain could be the new "buzz" word. Pun intended

 

@Lee Taylor How's the syrup going, the bees taking it well?

 

Try to get the Apivar in asap - 10 weeks treatment time from now is well into the honey flow.

 

It's probably quite important to make sure your hive doesn't accidentally run out of stores now that they are just recovering from DWV and all that...they need the young healthy bees to replace the sick ones. My Akl hive (onto its first proper summer) has been taking in quite a bit of syrup and most of it has been eaten / used for expansion rather than stored; there's not a lot of stores being accumulated despite the feeding, I'm guessing because of the rainy weather.

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Wait until swarming kicks off.

 

In my first season I did a vertical split with a division board. Queen in top with a small 1-2 bee entrance facing rear. Couple of frames of near emerging brood, couple of empty frames and a few stores. Don't be tempted to put any more brood up top because they may not be able to cover it once the field bees all settle in the bottom box.

 

The bottom box will get the bulk of the bees and should raise a well nourished queen under emergency response.

 

@Rob Stockley , thanks for the above advise. What do you think of a variation of your method; put old queen in one FD with a couple of frames of brood, some stores and empty frames, shake in some nurse bees and move her across the backyard to my new beehive location (rather than vertical). Leave the queenless hive (2 FD's) with the rest of stores & brood in the old location so it'll get the field bees and hopefully will raise a new queen.

 

I currently have the hive across 3 brood boxes with 9 frames of brood, so the queenless hive should have good bee numbers and 7 frames of brood. Maybe put in a pollen patty & top feeder on both until strengthened.

 

Does that sound about right? Just over 2 weeks until apivar strips come out, so planning to split then.

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@AeroviewBrewery, I do it opposite way.

 

In the original location/position I leave the queenless box with 4 frames and I move the larger part of bees and the queen in another box few meters away. Many bees will return even from the box not only from the field to the original location boosting up the queenless nuc.

 

If you move away a small amount of bees and there will be not enough of them to cover the brood - it is not easy to have only nurse bees regardless how careful you are.

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You want to leave as few eggs as possible, like only one frame, with the flying bees or else you will have queen cells galore .

Also , provide a bit more stores to your moved hive as they will not have the numbers to get out and forage for a while. Reduce entrance right down

The main risk with that method is the flight bees you move with the queen can view the moved hive as a good source of feed and rob it out

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Hi there, just checking in on the natural split or walkaway split method and how it worked out? I'm running a brood monster hive residentially which is four boxes with 23.5 frames of brood. Bonkers. My instructor from the bee course I did is coming to look at it next week as he said that's a phenomenal performance from a queen and wants to look himself!
I'm in my first year of beekeeping and have had this hive since Feb. 
Just wanting some more advice on doing a natural split? I'm thinking of taking off one of the brood boxes and placing it next to the mother hive? Reducing the entrance, making sure plenty of stores and some brood frames and even a honey super on top? I have loads of drone and drone brood in the mother hive.
Can I place this box just next to the mother hive? I've done some research and see others place it in front of the existing hive? Why is this?
Any tips are welcome and if you could point me in the direction of videos/articles?! Especially NZ ones.

Thanks,

Tabitha

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@backyardbeesif you don't get a queen or cell then you need lots of young bees in the queenless split.

I always move the queenright colony few meters away, and I leave the queenless split in its place so the drifting bees will boost it.

Shake lots of young bees(from the frames with larvae) into the split, add frames with capped brood and only one frame with the right age of larvae/fresh eggs.

Check the split in 3-4 days and remove all queen cells except 2. And leave it alone for 2 weeks.

 

However in your case I'll do something different.

Ask your mentor to graft a series of cells and make new queens from that superqueen. And youll use 1 or 2 of those queens for your splits and the mentor can have the rest of them.

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