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ive got 3 hives, first hive has two supers on,brood spread into the top super with some honey stores,and 3 empty frames that have been drawn,seems lots of bees in there.

hive 2 just 1 super,with 8 frames and double feeder, 6 frames with brood and honey mixed and 2 frames just honey,full of bees

hive 3 just 1 super, 2 draw empty frames,1 honey frame and 5 frames brood and honey,full of bees

any advice on my next moves do i split,treat for verroa,did treatment end of summer,add new supers,

im in the country and bees seem to be collecting pollen

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It is important to treat for Varroa as you are in Auckland with the the highest bee colony density in the country. So if you don't treat and a neighbour of you don't treat you bees will bee in trouble as drones carry Varroa from hive to hive.

Now is the time to bring all your brood to a single box and treat with 2 strips of Apivar per colony!

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It is important to treat for Varroa as you are in Auckland with the the highest bee colony density in the country. So if you don't treat and a neighbour of you don't treat you bees will bee in trouble as drones carry Varroa from hive to hive.

Now is the time to bring all your brood to a single box and treat with 2 strips of Apivar per colony!

so fill super up with brood from diffrent hives and treat for verroa or did u mean treat each hive sepratly

 

 

I only use 3/4 so won't offer my advice which would be different along "easy beekeeping" principles.

Just give more space if needed, and how depends if you use a queen excluder.

im not using queen excluded

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If you have brood chimney through several boxes you bring all brood into a single box. Treat each colony individually! For every brood chamber of every colony you need 2 strips of Apivar!

 

Just for clarification and distinction.

A 'hive' is a 'house' for bees

A 'colony' is a 'family' of bees

If you don't believe me, have a look at wiki, they got it right!!!!

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ive got 3 hives, first hive has two supers on,brood spread into the top super with some honey stores,and 3 empty frames that have been drawn,seems lots of bees in there.

hive 2 just 1 super,with 8 frames and double feeder, 6 frames with brood and honey mixed and 2 frames just honey,full of bees

hive 3 just 1 super, 2 draw empty frames,1 honey frame and 5 frames brood and honey,full of bees

any advice on my next moves do i split,treat for verroa,did treatment end of summer,add new supers,

im in the country and bees seem to be collecting pollen

 

assuming no honey coming in, hives 2 and 3 need to be fed (3 is critical) and will probably need another box on.

hive 1 is probably ok for now.

all need mite treatment.

do not split.

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If you have brood chimney through several boxes you bring all brood into a single box. Treat each colony individually! For every brood chamber of every colony you need 2 strips of Apivar!

 

Just for clarification and distinction.

A 'hive' is a 'house' for bees

A 'colony' is a 'family' of bees

If you don't believe me, have a look at wiki, they got it right!!!!

im happy with that ,i got my colony of u

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assuming no honey coming in, hives 2 and 3 need to be fed (3 is critical) and will probably need another box on.

hive 1 is probably ok for now.

all need mite treatment.

do not split.

treat now,and do you think split in spring

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ive got 3 hives, first hive has two supers on,brood spread into the top super with some honey stores,and 3 empty frames that have been drawn,seems lots of bees in there.

hive 2 just 1 super,with 8 frames and double feeder, 6 frames with brood and honey mixed and 2 frames just honey,full of bees

hive 3 just 1 super, 2 draw empty frames,1 honey frame and 5 frames brood and honey,full of bees

any advice on my next moves do i split,treat for verroa,did treatment end of summer,add new supers,

im in the country and bees seem to be collecting pollen

 

I think you need to treat for Varroa urgently on all three hives, last Summer is some time ago. You may want a sugar shake test on each hive first, and then get Apivar in, and then sugar shake later to measure the effectiveness of treatment.

 

Hive 1: Transfer all brood frames into one box, move that box to the bottom. Maybe put a Queen Excluder on to keep Queen to bottom box - just depends really what you want to achieve. If you want more brood in the second box over time and even a second brood box don't put it on. You may need a third box at some stage.

 

Hive 2: I'd ditch the frame feeder and free up that space getting two new frames in there, and probably put a top feeder on (for hive 1 and hive 3 also) but again depends on what you want to achieve. You may need another box soon. Same comments as above re Queen Excluder.

 

Hive 3: Same as 2.

 

 

Re splitting, split when the hives are strong and pumping. Whether to split depends on your objectives, but you will need to consider swarm prevention from mid September onwards. If you split you create an extra colony but you also compromise existing colony strength and reduce it's honey generating ability. So do you want more colonies / bees or do you want more honey? The answer to that determines how you want to proceed.

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treat now,and do you think split in spring

Feed now and split in spring as swarm prevention. If colony is strong and overflowing, split and take the 'old' queen to make a new colony as swarming prevention!

You are on the right track!

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I think you need to treat for Varroa urgently on all three hives, last Summer is some time ago. You may want a sugar shake test on each hive first, and then get Apivar in, and then sugar shake later to measure the effectiveness of treatment.

 

Hive 1: Transfer all brood frames into one box, move that box to the bottom. Maybe put a Queen Excluder on to keep Queen to bottom box - just depends really what you want to achieve. If you want more brood in the second box over time and even a second brood box don't put it on. You may need a third box at some stage.

 

Hive 2: I'd ditch the frame feeder and free up that space getting two new frames in there, and probably put a top feeder on (for hive 1 and hive 3 also) but again depends on what you want to achieve. You may need another box soon. Same comments as above re Queen Excluder.

 

Hive 3: Same as 2.

 

 

Re splitting, split when the hives are strong and pumping. Whether to split depends on your objectives, but you will need to consider swarm prevention from mid September onwards. If you split you create an extra colony but you also compromise existing colony strength and reduce it's honey generating ability. So do you want more colonies / bees or do you want more honey? The answer to that determines how you want to proceed.

i like more hives but also want them to be strong to get there honey,wanted to split to stop swarming,what do you think about two queens in one hive

thanks for the advice on the three hives

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assuming no honey coming in, hives 2 and 3 need to be fed (3 is critical) and will probably need another box on.

hive 1 is probably ok for now.

all need mite treatment.

do not split.

Newbee questions....

Just wondering why feeding hive 3 is critical at this stage?

Is it because the ratio of brood frames to honey frames is too high, i.e. too much brood without enough honey to support this in the near future?

Feeding the hive will allow the bees to fill the remaining frames with honey relatively quickly so that the brood will be happy when they emerge?

Thanks

Dave

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i like more hives but also want them to be strong to get there honey,wanted to split to stop swarming,what do you think about two queens in one hive

thanks for the advice on the three hives

split only for swarm prevention.

a big thing is to not weaken the hives.

dual queen hives usually don't work well here. to advanced for a beginner to tackle.

get the basics right before going to the fancy stuff.

 

Newbee questions....

Just wondering why feeding hive 3 is critical at this stage?

Is it because the ratio of brood frames to honey frames is too high, i.e. too much brood without enough honey to support this in the near future?

.......

because you have very little food in there and its going to ramp up bee numbers very quickly.

this is the start of the danger time, where bees ramp up numbers, a lot more mouths to feed, and stores are dwindling.

very very easy to starve a hive to death.

 

i had one today that was 8 frames of brood, two of honey. had to strip brood out of it and put frames of honey into it. swapped brood for stores with the hive next to it. got to watch the AFB risk.

if i didn't do that it will be starved to death before i get back to check on it.

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Is it because the ratio of brood frames to honey frames is too high, i.e. too much brood without enough honey to support this in the near future?

Yes. Lots of bees and lots of brood to feed = big demand. If the weather turns too cruddy to fly, that one frame of honey could disappear very quickly.

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