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aethina tumida


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hi!!!i'm new in this forum, in italy i ve got 40 hives and i've worked with professionist for many seasons. actually i'm working in a company of beekeping equipment.

i'd like to share some experience with you about this beautiful world and one is aethina tumida.

this beetle was found in south of italy two years ago but probably would arrived here,in the north.

my question is this....have you any big problems with this beetle? is there an efficient solution for remove it or control his diffusion in the hives?we have varroa from many years but we can control it.

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Hi Davide,

 

No SHB here, thank goodness. A very experienced beekeeper here in NZ said on another thread that they didn't think it would be too much of a problem in most parts of NZ because we are too cold and damp for it to thrive. I'm not so sure.

 

I know over time the problem seemed to lessen in the US.

 

The US and Austalians tend to trap it with traps of various design, an example is below:

 

Beetle Blaster: Small Hive Beetle trap | Vita Europe

 

I understand strong hives can generally keep the beetles at bay, like wax moths but more serious.

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As we are next to Italy, we had couple lectures about Aethina tumida. As you say won't be nightmare, but weekend beekeepers will vanish..

As is said, it came by sea port into Italy, so at these port areas especially should pay attention. I think same way came asian hornet ( Vespa velutina) in France.

Not bee related, but one corn pest came by airport in Europe from USA I think ( Diabrotica virgifera).

So we are one big village, and I think more is question when than will it happen..

Of course, we should be prepared and act as best we can to slow down " introduction" and than to adapt to live with " beasts" which come to our area..

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and I think more is question when than will it happen..

 

I think that is true for a lot of these pests. With globalisation eventually everyone will have everything.

 

The pest that really worries me is Tropilaelaps Clareae.

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Thanks for all your reply, aethina in italy cause a lot of panic,because noboby knows it.now shb not develop in south for climate condition, I think because it s too sick....what is favourire climate conditions for his development?if you have any question about varroa, i can help you and explain methods that we use,biologic or not.

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Thanks for all your reply, aethina in italy cause a lot of panic,because noboby knows it.now shb not develop in south for climate condition, I think because it s too sick....what is favourire climate conditions for his development?if you have any question about varroa, i can help you and explain methods that we use,biologic or not.

 

It's from Southern Africa I think, so presumably hot and dry conditions suit it well. It's well established in Australia and the southern states of the USA.

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Thanks for all your reply, aethina in italy cause a lot of panic,because noboby knows it.now shb not develop in south for climate condition, I think because it s too sick....what is favourire climate conditions for his development?if you have any question about varroa, i can help you and explain methods that we use,biologic or not.

i would be very interested in how you control varroa

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For control varroa There are some methods , traditional, like apistan and apivar,that are a strips with a chemical solution, or a biologic solution. I use the last one. After the last crop of honey , i take the queen and i put it into a cage for 21 days. Then i release it and after three days i drip bioxalid acid in the hive.varroa become to fall and continue for a few days. Queen must be caged because acid works only on Open brodo.The second treatment is before natural winter break brood. Another type of treathment is sublimation; the hives must be treated four times because the queen wasn 't caged. In this way we can kill all mites that are on new bees borned. we have to do this treatment in particular climate conditions.

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For control varroa There are some methods , traditional, like apistan and apivar,that are a strips with a chemical solution, or a biologic solution. I use the last one. After the last crop of honey , i take the queen and i put it into a cage for 21 days. Then i release it and after three days i drip bioxalid acid in the hive.varroa become to fall and continue for a few days. Queen must be caged because acid works only on Open brodo.The second treatment is before natural winter break brood. Another type of treathment is sublimation; the hives must be treated four times because the queen wasn 't caged. In this way we can kill all mites that are on new bees borned. we have to do this treatment in particular climate conditions.

 

I wonder when have brood break for 21 days, what of the colony you have later. I don't understand when losing so many bee generations how colony get back in full strength. If I do that in my preparations for winter, colony would be too weak for next season. Cause we have carnies and in August rapidly decrease brooding, some even at late August have no brood no matter of stimulative feed. In September mostly brooding stop. Some may emerge in October. But that is significantly reduced laying..

If You have Italians which don't stop brooding and mild winter more understandable, but yet again it is hard for me to accept :)

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Your consideration is true,i don t know your type of climate condition or type and period of honey crop. Here last crop is in july, then we stop brood and queen will be free after 21 days; the number of bee come down in the first time but for september, before preparation to winter, the colonies have a good number of bee for winter. If bees having food , you haven t any problems because then can heat hive. My beekeping teacher sayd me that a fist of bees can exceed winter without problems,the important think is food, it s true.

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