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Alastair

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Yep .... nothing like a spate of rainy days for getting those crappy jobs done. The man at the testing staion did'nt like the rust under the radiator .... and  those orange buckets are so usefull !!

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42 minutes ago, jamesc said:

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Yep .... nothing like a spate of rainy days for getting those crappy jobs done. The man at the testing staion did'nt like the rust under the radiator .... and  those orange buckets are so usefull !!

COF time again.... they come around so quickly...

Anyone else had to extend rear mudflaps lately? 

We did, to now comply.  Been like that since new. 

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They seem to find something new every time. Our mudflaps were too close to the wheels ..... been like that since new  ..... they now comply !

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They are getting picky now cos the new, overly safety conscious government has outed a bunch of places being a little sloppy with WOF's and the penalties are HUGE.

 

If you do WOF's or COF's you got to be letter of the law, or your life might be changed, in a bad way.

 

One good thing, only have to do it once a year not every 6 months which was ridiculous especially if you have several vehicles to worry about. Although that change was brought in under the previous government. But most other countries don't even have it that often, Japan do theirs once every 3 years.

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3 minutes ago, Alastair said:

 

 

One good thing, only have to do it once a year not every 6 months which was ridiculous especially if you have several vehicles to worry about. Although that change was brought in under the previous government. But most other countries don't even have it that often, Japan do theirs once every 3 years.

Unfortunately that generosity didn't extend to the cof world. 

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Really! COF's every 6 months? I just assumed everything would have gone out to 12 months. What a pain!

And since we are in the truck thread got to share a wee giggle i had a few days ago, one of my site owners is an incredibly wealthy guy with properties and other business investments all over Auckland.

 

Around 5 years ago when I first showed up in the Mahindra i was a little surprised how blunt and in my face he was, it's "bxxxxy ugly" he said, and "it will probably be good for 2 or 3 years". I could tell by the glazed look in his eyes and the head shaking that he thought i was little less than crazy for buying it.

 

Every time i see him since then he comes up with a smile and "how's the truck going?", anticipating to hear the worst.

 

Few days ago he greeted me with "how's the Mahindra going?". "Sweet" i said. "5 years and 124,000" on it now. I could see he was ticked, gave me a warm glow the rest of the day. 😄

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29 minutes ago, Alastair said:

gave me a warm glow the rest of the day. 😄

Probably exhaust heat coming up through the floor

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33 minutes ago, Alastair said:

Really! COF's every 6 months? I just assumed everything would have gone out to 12 months. What a pain!

And since we are in the truck thread got to share a wee giggle i had a few days ago, one of my site owners is an incredibly wealthy guy with properties and other business investments all over Auckland.

 

Around 5 years ago when I first showed up in the Mahindra i was a little surprised how blunt and in my face he was, it's "bxxxxy ugly" he said, and "it will probably be good for 2 or 3 years". I could tell by the glazed look in his eyes and the head shaking that he thought i was little less than crazy for buying it.

 

Every time i see him since then he comes up with a smile and "how's the truck going?", anticipating to hear the worst.

 

Few days ago he greeted me with "how's the Mahindra going?". "Sweet" i said. "5 years and 124,000" on it now. I could see he was ticked, gave me a warm glow the rest of the day. 😄

If it does 400-500k km then Ill be a believer 

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It probably won't. But it doesn't have to. On a cost basis that would be like saying if a Landcruiser does one and a half million, I'll be a believer.

 

However I'm on a South African Mahindra forum cos there's a few of them over there. There are quite a few over there driving around with 300,000 + on them, and some of those owners have done nothing other than regular servicing. One is a concrete guy who bought his new and tows a trailer he said the trailer is always on, he'll have up to a ton on the ute and usually a ton plus on the trailer and he is over 300,000 with it now.

 

Honestly, prestige, no. Suits me, I don't want my land owners seeing me arrive in a $100,000 vehicle they will probably get demanding. I need to look modest. But financially I do  think the Mahindras are a good investment.

Edited by Alastair
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10 hours ago, Philbee said:

Prado 1kz -TE are restricted to 10lb boost and a Factory set non adjustable Denso Electronic  injector pump.
They go ok but Im over ok.
It took about 2 years to figure it out but mine now goes a bit better than most.
I have a hill that the truck used to go up at 10 psi boost, 700 deg C egt (Pre turbo) at 80kmh.

Now it goes up at 20 psi boost, 600 deg C at 100kmh.

What else is there to do on a rainy Saturday while the wife hosts a kitchen Tea

 

 

 

is it intercooled?

6 minutes ago, Alastair said:

It probably won't. But it doesn't have to. On a cost basis that would be like saying if a Landcruiser does one and a half million, I'll be a believer.

 

However I'm on a South African Mahindra forum cos there's a few of them over there. There are quite a few over there driving around with 300,000 + on them, and some of those owners have done nothing other than regular servicing. One is a concrete guy who bought his new and tows a trailer he said the trailer is always on, he'll have up to a ton on the ute and usually a ton plus on the trailer and he is over 300,000 with it now.

 

Honestly, prestige, no. Suits me, I don't want my land owners seeing me arrive in a $100,000 vehicle they will probably get demanding. I need to look modest. But financially I do  think the Mahindras are a good investment.

odds are it will rust out well before it ever wears out.

in dry climates thats less of an issue.

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Yes i looked at some older Mahindras when I was at the repair place and rust is definately an issue. 

 

So mine has been galvanised, an extra cost but i think will be worth it. 

 

I asked on the SA forum about rust, didn't get one person respond with a problem. Different climate over there.

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1 hour ago, Jamo said:

Unfortunately that generosity didn't extend to the cof world. 

Be good if it was time and distance.

I do 10-15k a year in truck. Need 2 cofs at 170.

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1 hour ago, tristan said:

is it intercooled?

Hell yes,

Those little Turbos are hair driers 

I drive it on the EGT and boost gauges 

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30 minutes ago, Philbee said:

Hell yes,

Those little Turbos are hair driers 

I drive it on the EGT and boost gauges 

excellent.

tho with such cold temps you could drop the boost a bit and take some load off the engine. those turbo's usually don't like running at high boost.

assuming EGT probe is in a good place, 700c is fine.

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1 hour ago, tristan said:

excellent.

tho with such cold temps you could drop the boost a bit and take some load off the engine. those turbo's usually don't like running at high boost.

assuming EGT probe is in a good place, 700c is fine.

My probe is about 100mm above the turbo on the forward right side of the pipe.
This was determined by the access angle when drilling.
The hottest Ive seen with the hi boost is 650 deg C but at 10psi the old way Id see 700 easy.

I think it was over fueling before even although it was a new pump and the resisters were at minimum setting.
Now the resisters are on trim pots and with the higher boost the whole thing is much more tuneable.

At this stage Ive completely removed the turbo wastegate actuator hose so the turbo is free to pump to full pressure but that tends only to be 20-25 psi and its easy to drive to the pressure gauge where 15-18 psi  is a comfortable easy place to accelerate at and 10 seems to be a good cruise pressure.

The MAP sensor has a regulator to tell lies to the computer

 

Edited by Philbee

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15 hours ago, Philbee said:

I have a hill that the truck used to go up at 10 psi boost, 700 deg C egt (Pre turbo) at 80kmh.

Now it goes up at 20 psi boost, 600 deg C at 100kmh.

What else is there to do on a rainy Saturday while the wife hosts a kitchen Tea

Heck @Philbee with 100% over factory boost is there a chance the rainy Saturday job might be replacing the head/gasket in short time? Most of the earlier Prado's were prone to head cracking before 200,000k were they not?

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2 hours ago, Philbee said:

The hottest Ive seen with the hi boost is 650 deg C but at 10psi the old way Id see 700 easy.

I think it was over fueling before even although it was a new pump and the resisters were at minimum setting.

not uncommon to see up to 800c on a lot of diesels. 700c is safe.

 

i would fit a ball spring boost controller (mbc) to the waste gate and set it at 20 psi, see what max egt is, then lower boost until it starts getting up towards 700c. i suspect probably around 16-17 psi is probably good. but i can't remember the max boost recommended for those turbo's. to high and it just increases back pressure to much, and the efficiency goes bad so your not really gaining any extra airflow.

 but keep in mind the resistor mods increase overall fueling, not the on boost fueling. so you can result in too much fuel in no/low boost situations and not enough in high boost situations.

1 hour ago, Ali said:

Heck @Philbee with 100% over factory boost is there a chance the rainy Saturday job might be replacing the head/gasket in short time? Most of the earlier Prado's were prone to head cracking before 200,000k were they not?

diesels don't blow head gaskets. increase in boost is not a big deal as many petrol heads think (diesels tend to be opposite to petrol's). its not until you push the turbo out of its efficient operating range that you get trouble.

heads cracking is typically from overheating due to old stuffed radiators or failed fans. the early ones are not intercooled so a little bit quicker to overheat the heads than the intercooled version.

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Uh Huh .... we pressure tested the radiator when we had it out of Stella ..... and low and behold a little pin prick hole dribbling onto  the chassis cross member. Rob the Radiator could'nt fix it - too much plastic -   so we tracked down a new one  .....  $1965.00 later .....ouch. But yah need tools to do yer trade right ?

Tell yah what though ..... my intercooler's bigger than Philbee's 😡 

 

Edited by jamesc

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6 hours ago, tristan said:

not uncommon to see up to 800c on a lot of diesels. 700c is safe.

 

i would fit a ball spring boost controller (mbc) to the waste gate and set it at 20 psi, see what max egt is, then lower boost until it starts getting up towards 700c. i suspect probably around 16-17 psi is probably good. but i can't remember the max boost recommended for those turbo's. to high and it just increases back pressure to much, and the efficiency goes bad so your not really gaining any extra airflow.

 but keep in mind the resistor mods increase overall fueling, not the on boost fueling. so you can result in too much fuel in no/low boost situations and not enough in high boost situations.

diesels don't blow head gaskets. increase in boost is not a big deal as many petrol heads think (diesels tend to be opposite to petrol's). its not until you push the turbo out of its efficient operating range that you get trouble.

heads cracking is typically from overheating due to old stuffed radiators or failed fans. the early ones are not intercooled so a little bit quicker to overheat the heads than the intercooled version.

Lol

Yes all  as Tristan says.

The exhaust gas temp is a major instrument that  all diesels should have but dont.

When you see a diesel truck on a hill with black smoke pouring out you know that the temperatures from  the combustion chamber to the Turbo are through the roof.
Thats why you dont bury your boot on a hill, you should back off to the point where the motor slows down then just sit at the point slightly above that.
The 1kz-te is an engine that doesn't survive constant exhaust gas temps over 700 deg C.

 

With my the increased boost the EGT is 100 deg C lower most of the time.

Also, mechanics are often not happy to insert the temp probe above the Turbo, preferring to put it down stream
This is probably to prevent damage to the turbo if the probe breaks off and goes through the turbo.

Difference is that a probe downstream may read 550 deg C when at the same time a probe upstream will be reading 700.
700 is the max upstream temp and Ive seen temps up to 900 deg C just by having too much hoof on the gas on a hill so its easy to do.
Excessive exhaust gas temps will melt pistons and probably damage exhaust valves .

Ive read that the effects are often accumulative over time.
 

Edited by Philbee

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