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Got a new bee truck today. 1929 Willys Overland Whippet.

It’s a very long time since I had a Ute . Now I have one again . I love it 

Got truck and just waiting for sign writing 

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$10K for mine, plus about a grand to fit it from memory. Included structural work under the deck, all wiring and also manual stabiliser legs both sides.

 

Thanks for the info.

 

Do they last for a while, i.e. can you take it off and put it on your next ute?

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Yes, like Tristan said, landcruisers take the abuse ok

but only to a point.

weight wise not to bad. a little over depending on the weight of the crane.

but you would save a lot of wear and tear, and have better driving if you loaded it properly.

if you put the 2nd pallet along side the first one you will find it doesn't drag its rear into the ground.

 

the problem with cranes at the rear is they put weight in the wrong place.

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the side lip comes from big trucks. it is handy at times as it stops things sliding off the side if straps come loose/break.

 

turbo 5l is easy enough. surf 2lt gear bolts on or you get the aftermarket kits that use the mitsi turbo. real power comes from the fueling.

highly recommend intercooling especially on the 5l.

but you also can gain a lot by the gearing. some hiluxs are to high geared. really want the L series to be singing around 3000-3200 rpm @100kph.

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2002 3.0D Single cab 250,000km. I am going to raise the deck up like yours [uSER=1818]

[ATTACH=full]11450[/ATTACH]

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Is your pump electronic or manual @dansar ? mine is electronic so will just need to a few settings on the ROM on the side of the pump to increase the fuel at the right RPM when boosting I will not go more then around 7 psi boost will make a big differents on the hills with not to much stress on the engine then you don't really need to worry about all the plumbing for a intercooler @tristan the TD04 mitsu turbo they use in those kits have major over heating problems in the turbine housing and recommend not going near one I will use a small Garrett or even a CT12 they use on the 1KZ.

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Agreed, careful of aftermarket supposed power boosting stuff.

 

If it was so easy to get a whole heap extra horsepower the manufacturers would have done it as standard. Reason the manufacturers set things up the way they do is not cos they are too stupid to think of it. It's cos after comprehensive testing they decide where on the bell curve to set power against force on all components and wear and tear.

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Is your pump electronic or manual @dansar ? mine is electronic so will just need to a few settings on the ROM on the side of the pump to increase the fuel at the right RPM when boosting I will not go more then around 7 psi boost will make a big differents on the hills with not to much stress on the engine then you don't really need to worry about all the plumbing for a intercooler @tristan the TD04 mitsu turbo they use in those kits have major over heating problems in the turbine housing and recommend not going near one I will use a small Garrett or even a CT12 they use on the 1KZ

just doing the ROM will only do base fueling. really need boost fueling. its not to bad provided don't up the fuel to much but i wouldn't recommend it on a vehicle thats going to be working hard.

intercooling is still very much recommended even at low boot levels especially on the 5l.

even on my 3l its a noticeable change even in the low boost range. it also doubles as a shrapnel catcher.

 

interesting on the TD04. i know someone who was hunting cooling issues but theirs was wound up a fair bit.

i would be surprised if the kits has backpressure issues unless someone fitted wrong TD04.

 

i would love to fit a variable turbo :cool:

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Agreed, careful of aftermarket supposed power boosting stuff.

 

If it was so easy to get a whole heap extra horsepower the manufacturers would have done it as standard. Reason the manufacturers set things up the way they do is not cos they are too stupid to think of it. It's cos after comprehensive testing they decide where on the bell curve to set power against force on all components and wear and tear.

 

To be honest the higher compression engine the was not designed to be turbocharged performs far better than the lower compression engine, in the early days we fitted turbo's to nearly every 2.4 Toyota that was going to the bush run around 10 psi boost 20% more power at the rear wheels they lasted as long as the non turbocharged ones :)

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Agreed, careful of aftermarket supposed power boosting stuff.

 

If it was so easy to get a whole heap extra horsepower the manufacturers would have done it as standard. Reason the manufacturers set things up the way they do is not cos they are too stupid to think of it. It's cos after comprehensive testing they decide where on the bell curve to set power against force on all components and wear and tear.

 

with diesels a lot of it comes down to emissions. if you don't have to worry about emission standards then you can get a whole lot more power out of them.

granted there is limits and some engines the limits are low due to well know problems.

 

i think you would be surprised at how much they can get out of stock standard diesel.

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just doing the ROM will only do base fueling. really need boost fueling. its not to bad provided don't up the fuel to much but i wouldn't recommend it on a vehicle thats going to be working hard.

intercooling is still very much recommended even at low boot levels especially on the 5l.

even on my 3l its a noticeable change even in the low boost range. it also doubles as a shrapnel catcher.

 

interesting on the TD04. i know someone who was hunting cooling issues but theirs was wound up a fair bit.

i would be surprised if the kits has backpressure issues unless someone fitted wrong TD04.

 

i would love to fit a variable turbo :cool:

 

I can set the fuel increase on ROM at what ever RPM or RPM's I want. The TD04 turbine housing is to tight and compact that's the problem with it. you will need a computer to run that variable vein ;)

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@tristan if you don't have fuel you wont have boost or very little not worth worrying about. Vac operated are dead and gone :rofl:

you don't cut the fuel that much ! you only need to trim it a bit in the off boost so the car behind doesn't disappear in a cloud of smoke and keep your afr and egt at sane levels.

 

still a few vac operated turbo's around. older ones might a bit better sized for older engines.

i have seen homemade ecu's for the electric ones. someone must have a kit for them by now.

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Is your pump electronic or manual @dansar ? mine is electronic so will just need to a few settings on the ROM on the side of the pump to increase the fuel at the right RPM when boosting I will not go more then around 7 psi boost will make a big differents on the hills with not to much stress on the engine then you don't really need to worry about all the plumbing for a intercooler @tristan the TD04 mitsu turbo they use in those kits have major over heating problems in the turbine housing and recommend not going near one I will use a small Garrett or even a CT12 they use on the 1KZ.

To be honest, this is an unknown to me, diesel a new beast for me. It is a 5LE though. Before kids and during early marriage I had turbo this turbo that,89' Nissan R32, 92' R33. 87' Mitsubishi GSRX (same as police model) 88' lanser GSR.

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you don't cut the fuel that much ! you only need to trim it a bit in the off boost so the car behind doesn't disappear in a cloud of smoke and keep your afr and egt at sane levels.

 

still a few vac operated turbo's around. older ones might a bit better sized for older engines.

i have seen homemade ecu's for the electric ones. someone must have a kit for them by now.

 

I wont be cutting it I will be increasing it when the boost is up the fuel will increase and the boost will rise there will be no smoke down low as that fuel is set to standard at those low RPMs... with a manual pump a boost compensator is fitted for that problem...

All sorted I've been a Turbocharger, Fuel injection technician for 30yrs :)..... Wreakers will have Vac ones good or bad who knows

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This is my beast that I had built. I am a hobbyist and I don't have to do much in the way of moving hives.

I went for a Suzuki Jimny, Sierra model. with Automatic, 4WD and Low Range.

This is what it started as.

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Then I had the back chopped off

 

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Then I had the deck built. 1800 wide x 1600 long

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Then I had the chassis extended by 500mm rather than the usual 200mm

 

This is the usual modification with a 1600 x 1600 deck.

[ATTACH]11457[/ATTACH]

 

This is the finished Ute

[ATTACH]11458[/ATTACH]

 

Then I got the art work done.

[ATTACH]11459[/ATTACH]

 

I am very happy with the finished result. Exactly as I wanted and the deck height is only 780mm

 

COOOOL :)

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I have a unique truck crane here that is looking for a new home.

It is now missing the winch because Ive robbed it off.

It is a free gift, Pickup only

I feel it fits in this thread as it is unique.

Its a factory Toyota rollbar crane off a Hilux or Cruiser.

The rollbar is the boom and it slews 180 degrees and the boom lifts and extends.

It will lift 450kg in close and 180kg at 1.8m reach

It would suit an engineering type person.

I will post some photos tomorrow.

I've never seen one before.

It has some very good parts and is too good for the dump

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I wont be cutting it I will be increasing it when the boost is up the fuel will increase and the boost will rise there will be no smoke down low as that fuel is set to standard at those low RPMs... with a manual pump a boost compensator is fitted for that problem...

All sorted I've been a Turbocharger, Fuel injection technician for 30yrs :)..... Wreakers will have Vac ones good or bad who knows

so what happens in high rpm low boost situations?

boost comp trims fuel in low boost rather than low rpm.

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