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Philbee

Crane trailer

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My new trailer got its first run today, It is still to have a crane fitted but other than that it is finished.

The crane will go between the front two axles.

It weighs in at 680kg as is plus 350kg for a crane.

It has Quadruple electric brakes and a front stowage box.

Deck is 2.2m x 4.4m5992eaf05e2df_NewTrailer.jpg.9a0458245b40f5fec45c7e99c6294c91.jpg

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what GM for it?

what the towing vechile?

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GM 3500kg

Landcruser

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My new trailer got its first run today, It is still to have a crane fitted but other than that it is finished.

The crane will go between the front two axles.

It weighs in at 680kg as is plus 350kg for a crane.

It has Quadruple electric brakes and a front stowage box.

Deck is 2.2m x 4.4m[ATTACH=full]9632[/ATTACH]

 

Looks a beauty mate, no rest for the little bees now. Move em on, move em on, from flowers to flowers.

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Nice one @King Bee

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The electric brakes were an absolute mission but worth it in the end.

I can use the trailer brakes from in the cab and also set the braking force while driving.

These trailers have no safety chain, instead they have a battery on the trailer that activates the brakes should the trailer part company from the truck.

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I think I smell burning wheels........

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I think I smell burning wheels........

Yes they will lock up if set to harsh.

The cab controller allows me to adjust accordingly

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Are you able to get a warrant with no safety chain?

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Are you able to get a warrant with no safety chain?

The fact is that its illegal to use a safety chain on a trailer of this GVM that has electric brakes.

It is fitted with a break away switch that locks the brakes on if the trailer comes off the tow vehicle.

The trailer has a small 12v battery that sits on charge all its life just in case its required to power up the brakes in the event of a break away.

The same principle applies to big trucks.

They dont use a safety chain either but if the trailer were to come off the lack of air to the brakes locks them on very quickly.

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They dont use a safety chain either but if the trailer were to come off the lack of air to the brakes locks them on very quickly.

 

Whacking great springs which are held apart by airpressure seem to me to be a far better bet than an electromechanical failsafe device. This from the perspective of a motorcyclist coming the other way.

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We had a guy at work hit by one of these trailers guy was using the wrong tow ball and did not attach the wire correctly . He should be dead but he will never work again they a not fool proof so use due care . On saying that I have used a quad axle trailer with a big tractor on the back was not keen to tow it not having air brakes , it was all self contained brake control on the trailer if the light plug was not in the brakes don't release bloody good never felt it on the back and I was at the maximum to tow when I get a big trailer I will be using them

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We had a guy at work hit by one of these trailers guy was using the wrong tow ball and did not attach the wire correctly . He should be dead but he will never work again they a not fool proof so use due care . On saying that I have used a quad axle trailer with a big tractor on the back was not keen to tow it not having air brakes , it was all self contained brake control on the trailer if the light plug was not in the brakes don't release bloody good never felt it on the back and I was at the maximum to tow when I get a big trailer I will be using them

Yes it is important to use the best quality gear including good power plugs. I used the 12 pin European coupling with a big grunty lock holding the plugs together.

All electric brake wires are 4.5mm 50 amp and each brake hub is wired independently to the main control box.

Every electrical component has its own 4.5mm supply and earth wire.

The power for the brakes doesn't come from a brake light as is the common belief, but rather from its own 50 amp cable to and from the cab control unit which is connected to the battery with its own 4.5mm earth and 50 amp supply though a 30 amp auto reset fuse.

When done right its bullet proof.

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nice setup.

tho HT required for a max load. one reason we stick with the lighter trailers and that electric braes are a pain when you have multiple tow vehicles.

otherwise very nice setup and safer than most of the crap trailers we see around.....well actually thats more like find broken down and busted on the side of the road.

 

i'm not 100% sure but i thought there was a electric-hydraulic system thats pumps pressure into a chamber and stores it. that pressure is released to apply brakes if the breakaway cable breaks.

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The good thing about the vehicle compatibility with regard to the electric brakes is that very few people are set up to borrow the trailer.

I had it out on the loose gravel roads today and the electric brakes are the ultimate in safety.

I set them harsh and only needed to touch the truck brakes to have the trailer pull me up with very little input from the truck.

I put the whole rig into a snaking slide and used the hand control to simple cancel the snaking out.

Out on a big bush block on steep declines it is safer to just use the trailer brakes and this prevents the truck from skidding and sledging.

HT is required for max load and a COF I think.

IMO the effort was worth it and now that Ive wired one truck for it the other Toyota will be easier, the most difficult part being getting to the brake switch under the dash.

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Out on a big bush block on steep declines it is safer to just use the trailer brakes and this prevents the truck from skidding and sledging

absolutely. big advantage of electric. also uphill if you spin out you can jam the trailer brakes on to stop you sliding back down.

is that very few people are set up to borrow the trailer.

(y) :whistle:

 

no COF required as its a light trailer and the vehicle is a light vehicle. neither need COF even when used together.

 

tho, while costly, i do like brakes on all trailer axles. handy because trailer tires tend to have less grip than the tow vehicle and that most of those suspension don't have much travel and you do have wheels off the ground at times.

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If anyone is considering building a big trailer I can recommend the use of the 65mmx35mmx3mm RHS ( galv) (not hot dipped)

This is a very small section but good design and welding detail can produce a strong and light trailer.

This is what I've used to make the chassis and draw bar.

The deck ribs are 25mmx50mm (galv) (not hot dipped)

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Some aspects of this design that are proving to be exceptional are the dimensions from the front axle to the tow ball and the rear axle to the rear end of the trailer and the upward taper to the rear chassis.

These details mean that the trailer, even during extreme off roading does not belly the draw bar or drag is tail.

Also the full vee drawbar to the extreme outer width of the tailer (2.2m) brushes scrub aside.

The long wheelbase of the trailer means it doesn't fall into holes and hold the truck back.

The tapered rear chassis also allow the trailer to be backed up over the banks on the roadside in a tight spot.

Overall an exception design, that I can only take credit for part of

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even during extreme off roading does not belly the draw bar or drag is tail.

:rofl: sorry no offense but that isn't extreme offroading, its lite offroading at best.

the taper rear design is really good as is the drawbar design.

tho the close triple axle and such stiff short suspension is why it doesn't drop into holes. downside is you will get it bunny hopping down the paddocks at some stage.

someone needs to design a load sharing suspension that has shock absorbers for each axle.

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:rofl: sorry no offense but that isn't extreme offroading, its lite offroading at best.

the taper rear design is really good as is the drawbar design.

tho the close triple axle and such stiff short suspension is why it doesn't drop into holes. downside is you will get it bunny hopping down the paddocks at some stage.

someone needs to design a load sharing suspension that has shock absorbers for each axle.

Lol You needed to be there.

I should say extreme for having a trailer behind, definitely not lite at all, well off the tracks

This block is gated and locked but someone mucked up our daisy chain padlock system so I needed to go by another route which didn't really exist

One instance was with the truck at max decline bumper entry, turned 45deg to trailer with rear trailer tailboard 2m meters in air with 4 rear wheels off ground, then down over a very steep bank for 50 meters to get to a track, carrying 28 boxes

A floating trailer suspension would be good for some but not for a crane trailer as two much leverage would be lost

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One instance was with the truck at max decline bumper entry, turned 45deg to trailer with rear trailer tailboard 2m meters in air with 4 rear wheels off ground,

that sounds fairly normal (y)

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Lol You needed to be there.

I should say extreme for having a trailer behind, definitely not lite at all, well off the tracks

This block is gated and locked but someone mucked up our daisy chain padlock system so I needed to go by another route which didn't really exist

One instance was with the truck at max decline bumper entry, turned 45deg to trailer with rear trailer tailboard 2m meters in air with 4 rear wheels off ground, then down over a very steep bank for 50 meters to get to a track, carrying 28 boxes

A floating trailer suspension would be good for some but not for a crane trailer as two much leverage would be lost

Actually Tristran come to think of it I do have a trailer with beautiful soft suspension that is wonderful for carrying beehives.

There is a story to it tho

Many yrs ago my father in law, a crafty old farmer, would say to me, Go and grab that old trailer out of the paddock, it may be useful to you.

I was too smart for that old trick, if he wanted to tidy up the paddock he could take his own rubbish to the dump.

This went on for 15 yrs, same old line from him, same reaction from me.

Then one day in a weak moment I agreed to go get the trailer.

It was made entirely of wood, even the draw bar, (except the axle and springs etc).

Gob smacked I dragged it home and bit by bit disassembled it for refurbishment.

It turned out that his father in law had give it to him and he was passing it on.

It was about 60-80 yrs old

It was too small for my needs so I carefully packed all the parts away for a rainy day project and decided to copy it on a slightly larger scale and use its very long leaf springs on the new version.

So thats what I did, built a wooden trailer and used the Model A or similar springs. (Steel draw bar tho)

It is a single axle but the most forgiving and gentle trailer one could wish to own.

It has 600mm high sides and is 1400x2700mm.

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thats just it, nice long springs with decent travel. throw a set of shocks on and it would be very nice.

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:rofl: sorry no offense but that isn't extreme offroading, its lite offroading at best.

the taper rear design is really good as is the drawbar design.

tho the close triple axle and such stiff short suspension is why it doesn't drop into holes. downside is you will get it bunny hopping down the paddocks at some stage.

someone needs to design a load sharing suspension that has shock absorbers for each axle.

In 3 months I have worn out the 3500kg Trojan coupling and one and a half Tow balls.

Trojan want the coupling back for analysis but I know its just from extreme work.

They are supplying a swivel coupling this time.

As for the suspension of the triple, it has been superb.

Because the unsprung mass of the trailer relatively high, this mass seems to absorb the bumps well.

Realistically I thrash this trailer but the bees travel well on it.

By worn out I mean the trailer come off the tow ball,

This happened twice today.

The brakes automatically come on in this event

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