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How can the mice get in? And cleaning for the bees.


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Checked my tiny DWV hive today. The Q is laying but they have a lot of cleaning up to do. I lifted a new frame to find large hole with dead mouse attached!! They have a mouse guard on AND a block of wood in front of hole. There are chew marks at entrance. How on earth does a large mouse get in? 

Another Question. There were uncapped cells with white bees in. One had been pulled out. Likely all of these had bad DWV? I know they can hatch with no wings. I used a matchstick to pull them out as all of these were in the centre of a newly laid frame. Is it helpfull to do this for the bees? They have so few bees to do so much work.

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Have a look at the larva, are the wings developed ?? they could just be almost ready to cap, I wouldn’t remove them unless your 100% sure they are unhealthy bees.  Then I would remove the wh

We treated with Bayvarol this spring and I’ve seen no sign of resistance here, I have been on the look out but strips seem to have worked well.

Mice can squeeze into an incredibly small hole and it’s not uncommon to find them in dead or weak beehives, occasionally you find them mummified on the base as the bees can’t cart them out so they pro

40 minutes ago, Wildflower said:

Checked my tiny DWV hive today. The Q is laying but they have a lot of cleaning up to do. I lifted a new frame to find large hole with dead mouse attached!! They have a mouse guard on AND a block of wood in front of hole. There are chew marks at entrance. How on earth does a large mouse get in? 

Another Question. There were uncapped cells with white bees in. One had been pulled out. Likely all of these had bad DWV? I know they can hatch with no wings. I used a matchstick to pull them out as all of these were in the centre of a newly laid frame. Is it helpfull to do this for the bees? They have so few bees to do so much work.

Mice can squeeze into an incredibly small hole and it’s not uncommon to find them in dead or weak beehives, occasionally you find them mummified on the base as the bees can’t cart them out so they propolise them instead.

Warmth or shelter and food are both readily available so it’s probably a good place to live if your a mouse.

As for cleaning out cells for the bees, I wouldn’t, they have open cells for a few different reasons, the bees know best so other than taking out a few for a look it’s best not to interfere.

 

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1 hour ago, nikki watts said:

Have a look at the larva, are the wings developed ??

they could just be almost ready to cap, I wouldn’t remove them unless your 100% sure they are unhealthy bees. 

Then I would remove the whole frame and give the hive a frame of healthy brood from another hive. 

 

Wouldn't it be nice to have the option of giving them a frame of healthy brood!!

Only one other hive and it is only covering 4 or so frames itself. Will work on expanding a bit this year. 

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17 minutes ago, Wildflower said:

 

Wouldn't it be nice to have the option of giving them a frame of healthy brood!!

Only one other hive and it is only covering 4 or so frames itself. Will work on expanding a bit this year. 

Then as Daley said, Trust the bees, don’t remove any brood. Feed little and often until they can build under their own steam. Have you gotten on top of the varroa issue? 

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2 hours ago, Wildflower said:

Have treated with apistan. But there will still be a time to recover. 

I’d like to ask if you’ve checked it’s working, but even I wouldn’t sugar shake a hive with a severely compromised population . 

Youre right . It’s going to take a good 6 weeks for enough good clean bees to emerge to self boost the population before you really see any improvement .

Definately feed them light syrup little and often . That will help 

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