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BeeBob

Description of oxalic / staple method

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I've used oxalic in glycerine soaked paper towels with moderate success.  Main problem is that the towels reduce access between the boxes as the bees can be slow at removing it.

The "staple" method seems to work well and is probably described in the Oxalic Acid thread.  I've searched the thread and got snippets of information but have not read all 58 pages for the details.

Can someone please provide a summary of the method?

Thanks

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Look at TaylorS 's post on page 57 of that thread.....

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Good description in the post that @yesbut refers to, that being said, 58 pages may seem daunting but it's got loads of good information and you'll learn a lot from reading it, it's worth tackling. 

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2 hours ago, BeeBob said:

I've used oxalic in glycerine soaked paper towels with moderate success.  Main problem is that the towels reduce access between the boxes as the bees can be slow at removing it.

The "staple" method seems to work well and is probably described in the Oxalic Acid thread.  I've searched the thread and got snippets of information but have not read all 58 pages for the details.

Can someone please provide a summary of the method?

Thanks

Why not read it yourself?
 

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42 minutes ago, Philbee said:

Why not read it yourself?

C'mon Phil be reasonable you know no-one reads any more than the previous two posts ! We can't all be perfect !

Edited by yesbut
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Oxalic and Glycerine staples seem to be the way forward after reading all the old and current posts. Is the use of 65% Formic pads for the quick knock down of mites fallen out of favour.     

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20 minutes ago, yesbut said:

C'mon Phil be reasonable you know no-one reads any more than the previous two posts ! We can't all be perfect !

Lol
There is so much to be gained from this thread, so much work put in by so many, yet a few want, want, want to benefit without even the effort of reading for half an hour or so. 

 

 

 

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8 minutes ago, Chris Highman said:

Oxalic and Glycerine staples seem to be the way forward after reading all the old and current posts. Is the use of 65% Formic pads for the quick knock down of mites fallen out of favour.     

Maybe not

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10 minutes ago, Philbee said:

Maybe not

Have you seen the Canadian site for Mitegone?

His patent description is on the site too.

The site lists NZ Beeswax as a supplier in NZ but they don’t show it as a stocked item.

looks like it is a phenolic resin board wrapped in plastic. Cut the block in half which exposes one edge of the board. Soak the boards ( which need to be of a specific size). Once soaked fix them in the hive on the outside frame facing the internal sidewall of the box. The off gassing Formic acid fumes are heavier than air and in a hive with a solid floor form a gaseous soup that the bees mingle in and in the process kills the mites.

I am not sure if phenolic resin board is the same product as Florist Oasis. If it is that is pretty hazardous substance to be working with and have in the hive.

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yeah Na
Been there
I dont think its Oasis but its something.
Formic is too volatile IMO.

A better direction is Thymol and other Other less aggressive Organic Acids 

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Phi

21 minutes ago, Philbee said:

yeah Na
Been there
I dont think its Oasis but its something.
Formic is too volatile IMO.

A better direction is Thymol and other Other less aggressive Organic Acids 

Phil i read and re- read your posts using a pad, zip lock bag and gib tape wick and 65% formic acid. i have been using this method for the last few years with great effect.

When i see people asking what to use Apivar, Bayvarol, Apistan, Thymovar why not hit them with a flash treatment of Formic. Then use your staples as on going treatment. 

Edited by Chris Highman
adding
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3 minutes ago, Chris Highman said:

Phi

Phil i read and re- read your posts using a pad, zip lock bag and gib tape wick and 65% formic acid. i have been using this method for the last few years with great effect.

When i see people asking what to use Apivar, Bayvarol, Apistan, Thymovar why not hit them with a flash treatment of Formic. Then use your staples as on going treatment. 

Formic works thats for sure  but the scope for failure is significant
Every step of the process from manufacture to disposal is difficult.
There is the issue of ventilation  in the Hive, rusty lids, Acid burns, storing and Handling Formic, controlling the rate of evaporation and more.
 

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Ok and yes i understand some of the risks involved using Formic acid. All i use is a panty liner in a zip lock bag with two cuts and a Gib tabe wick, aluminium foil over the vented floor tep's over 10 C leave for 4 days then remove you can even re-use the pad and bag just add a new Gib wick if the bees have started removing it. This is so simple and as you know works very well. 

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11 hours ago, Philbee said:

 

Why not read it yourself?
 

 

I entirely agree as there is a lot to be learned.

 

Many community projects have a document with key points summarised.

 

What if the thread had a pdf at the beginning, 1-2 pages long that had the key points?

How, why, safety, materials, timing, regulation and credit/contribution.

It would need to be maintained, which is harder than making it. I’m happy to help and even to do a first draft however I haven’t contributed to the design in any way, am a beginner, and don’t want to tread on the toes of those that have put masses of energy into the staples.

If a series of ‘X’ appear below this post, I’d take that as a vote against.

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We live in a pill popping era
Have a problem, pop a pill.
IMO Beeks need to understand this process, not just follow bullet points to a solution.

 

Edited by Philbee
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2 minutes ago, Philbee said:

We live in a pill popping era
Have a problem, pop a pill.
IMO Beeks need to understand this process, not just follow bullet points to a solution.

 

There is probably an option to search and read just your posts.

They are all succinct and to the point .

Maybe you can not touch type. 

Which is a blessed relief .

Sometimes I think people who touch type shouldn't be allowed on forums.

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4 minutes ago, kaihoka said:

Maybe you can not touch type.

Not only can I not touch Type but I dont know what it is

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Thanks yesbut for pointing me to the right place.

There clearly is a lot of useful information in those (now) 60 pages.  It would be helpful for beginners like me for someone experienced with the technique to condense this down.  TaylorS's post is a good place to start.

Thanks

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1 hour ago, BeeBob said:

Thanks yesbut for pointing me to the right place.

There clearly is a lot of useful information in those (now) 60 pages.  It would be helpful for beginners like me for someone experienced with the technique to condense this down.  TaylorS's post is a good place to start.

Thanks

 

Do you have a PC?

 

For Windows or Linux OS

1.- Use Chrome to browse the net/nzbees

2.- Add the next extension to Chrome: SpeechifyIt will appear its icon in the top right corner of the browser

3.- Go to your preferred web page.......... oxalic/glycerine............

4.- Highlight the text you are interested in

5.- Click the Speechify icon

6.- Listen

 

You have few options to choose from if you like to play with it(speech speed, 7 different voices).

 

If you use an Apple device. Just like dictation, the built in text-to-speech agent in iOS is marvelous but it's turned off by default.

1.- Go to Settings ->General ->Accessibility and turn on Speak selection. You can customize the speed here as well.

2.- Go to any app, highlight some text or an entire article and from the popup menu select Speak.

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1 hour ago, Kiwi Bee said:

Speechify.

Well Ill be.
That's incredible 

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My phones speech voice is set to Daniel ?

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On 5/09/2018 at 10:37 PM, Philbee said:

Well Ill be.
That's incredible 

You should get yourself a Google home as well as speechify.

 

 

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I guess is what happens when you spend your days focused on small things (mite)
Your world shrinks in some regards and expands in others.
Much is missed in the void between

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It’s nice to finally hear what you guys sound like. 

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Try Audrey if you’re on a Mac. She is the best one and is very French.

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