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Markypoo

NZBF Adding super under the brood box

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17 minutes ago, Kiwi Bee said:

@Markypooto have two different type of hives will not help with your budget.

 

My 2 cents.

 

Run two hives which are the same(two langs) and use only one size.... FD. Running on plastic frames is easier(in some situations you can scrap off the comb if you do not like it meanwhile with wooden frames + foundation you will need a stock of frames). Or you can run everything on simplicity frames + foundation and the students can help to build them.

Build up to two brood boxes in the spring - they are easier to manage over the season. Carnis will build it up very fast(that is their forte) - you have to watch out.

To stay on budget get two metal QE and only two honey supers and one lid. Now you have the option to run both hives with common honey supers(you will have to cover the two half tops with a couple of boards). This method gives plenty of honey with minimal maintenance. However one of the hives always will be stronger you can manage that buy adding brood from one to the other and moving honey bound frames up to the supers.

Also in the brood nest I will have a simplicity frame(or buy one wooden frame) for each hive. I will place this frame third from the wall or first/next to the brood. The bees will build drone brood only and you can cull it with your hive tool or a knife every 2.5 weeks. This will reduce your varroa load and also you will get pure wax - no residues.

 

The topbar isn't out of my budget. There is enough scrap wood around that I can build it for free. The groundsman doesnt throw stuff away and the tech department had enough spare stuff piled up in a shed I could build a boat. Main thing is putting in a viewing window just for interests sake. 

 

The carni's are currently in two separate FD boxes. I was going to put another FD brood box on each. For the honey supers I was going to use 3/4 boxed with plastic frames. 2 on each. Maybe 3. I can always monitor and harvest quickly if it looks like they are getting filled up. Same thing I was going to do with my langs at home. 3/4 will be easier for kids to work with. I am a 6 foot 1, 48 year old ex prop so weight of the boxes is not an issue but some of these juniors are pretty small.

 

The PTA has come up with $500 to help buy materials so I am set now. I should get plenty of frames and supers. They are really chuffed about what I am getting up to in the department.

 

I will probably end up changing my mind next season.....

 

 

 

school hives.jpg

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On 15/07/2018 at 1:46 PM, Markypoo said:

am a 6 foot 1, 48 year old ex prop so weight of the boxes is not an issue but some of these juniors are pretty small.

 

I thought the same until they were stacked 8 high and it was 50 degrees in the suit.

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I might just have to harvest weekly to keep the stack down.

 

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8 hours ago, Markypoo said:

I might just have to harvest weekly to keep the stack down.

 

Sometimes in the perfect season the bees just keep collecting and storing rather than curing and capping. In that case you can’t harvest weekly or even fortnightly.

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@dansar I notice they are all 3/4 hives.

Do you think anyone would lift FD hives off a stack that high .

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20 hours ago, kaihoka said:

@dansar I notice they are all 3/4 hives.

Do you think anyone would lift FD hives off a stack that high .

I under supered every one of those boxes. One more full Depth went in there. Boxes 2 and 5 are FD. Box #2 went to the top of the stack with a new FD at #2 position?

 

Yes they go that high with FD boxes (this was before I culled out of my gear the annoying 3/4 depth boxes)?

 

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Edited by dansar

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@dansar do you climb up a ladder ?

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Are those unpainted boxes coated with linseed oil? Or anything? I like the look of them.

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32 minutes ago, Markypoo said:

Are those unpainted boxes coated with linseed oil? Or anything? I like the look of them.

I made them with Red Cedar, finished in clear Cabot’s deck oil.

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40 minutes ago, kaihoka said:

@dansar do you climb up a ladder ?

Gravity hasn’t effected so much. No ladders required to change light bulbs in my house?

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going the other way, getting rid of the F/D's and slowly going all 3/4's, so much better on the back now that it's starting to play up

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On 17/07/2018 at 11:27 PM, kaihoka said:

Do you think anyone would lift FD hives off a stack that high .

yeah but i let the staff do it :D

had a few this last season that make those ones look tiny !

Edited by tristan
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14 minutes ago, kevin moore said:

going the other way, getting rid of the F/D's and slowly going all 3/4's, so much better on the back now that it's starting to play up

I agree.  But it is a long process.  I have been working on it now for 2 full seasons and I still have 9 boxes to convert this season.

 

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On ‎17‎/‎07‎/‎2018 at 11:27 PM, kaihoka said:

@dansar I notice they are all 3/4 hives.

Do you think anyone would lift FD hives off a stack that high .

 

Rule of thumb in an outfit I used to work for, was that if the flow was still strong, boxes after the hive was already 4 high (we only used full depth), were added under the other honey supers. The boss believed, and probably rightly, that if the bees did not have to cart the honey so far, we would get a bigger crop. Gotta say though, that after a hard day of doing this on already 4 and 5 box hives, I was guilty of just slipping the odd box on top. o.O

other thing about that, is after about 3 honey supers, bees are just not inclined to store honey so far from the broodnest. So undersupering does pay.

 

Towards the end of the flow, new boxes can be put on top, the bees will only use if they have to. That's because if they are put underneath, the bees can part fill them, meaning you end up with more part filled boxes to extract, for the same amount of honey.

Edited by Alastair
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On 17 July 2018 at 11:27 PM, kaihoka said:

@dansar I notice they are all 3/4 hives.

Do you think anyone would lift FD hives off a stack that high .

 

Yep @Daley

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