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Oxalic and glycerine

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46 minutes ago, Maggie James said:

 I can't understand why NZ isn't marketing premium clover. 

'Cos most of us prefer a real honey like kanuka/mahoe.

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19 minutes ago, Maggie James said:

Doesn't come up in google.  I am not a gin drinker!  I am a serious scrabble player and follower of the OED!!!!!  Anyway, gotta go and cage some queens.  Then am off to catch some blue cod for a few days. 

Oh .....

 

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3 hours ago, Maggie James said:

That is cos Sheehans have great creaming skills

 

Bazza has his own processing plant? I thought Aiborne did all you guys stuff?

.

2 hours ago, yesbut said:

'Cos most of us prefer a real honey like kanuka/mahoe.

 

I'm with you there Yesbut, i like a good flavoursome bush honey.

 

My own turned out a pretty nice brew last season, just had a new customer call me to order some more, they told me they ran out but had had several customers actually tell them it was a really nice honey could they get some more.

 

But it's all personal taste i guess.

 

To me, the best multi florals are the nicest. But i think mono florals are worth more because we know exactly what we are getting. Me, I have to produce multi florals because where my bees are there is a bunch of stuff all flowering at the same time, no option. The down side of that is depending which species flowered well or poorly that year, can change the taste seasonally. But now I have a stock of some key flavour enhancing honeys, if need be i think i can blend this seasons crop and get a similar honey to last year which has been pretty popular. 🙂

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3 hours ago, yesbut said:

'Cos most of us prefer a real honey like kanuka/mahoe.

I have eaten a 80% rata mixed with 20% clover and creamed .

It was a very nice blend .

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Come on people.  Cut all this rubbish about honeys from this thread.  It is supposed to be about Oxalic Acid and Glycerine.  Any more such post and I will start to dish out warnings.

I will also hide these post and will not move them.

 

Beware.

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2 hours ago, Trevor Gillbanks said:

Come on people.  Cut all this rubbish about honeys from this thread.  It is supposed to be about Oxalic Acid and Glycerine.  Any more such post and I will start to dish out warnings.

I will also hide these post and will not move them.

 

Beware.

 

tenor.gif

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These pics taken today, one of a bayvarol treated hive and one of an OA treated hive. Both next to each other in the same site.

 

Still searching for reasons / something i could do different.

 

 

oa1.jpg

OA2.jpg

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6 minutes ago, Alastair said:

These pics taken today, one of a bayvarol treated hive and one of an OA treated hive. Both next to each other in the same site.

 

Still searching for reasons / something i could do different.

the good news is that it looks that there is something going on and that it's being raised.

bad news is the weak hive.

I'm going to hit oxalic/glycerine strips for the first time this late summer/autumn. I hope that i can contribute in some way. Happy to try any sensible suggested side-by-side approaches. Obviously will only be small sample size etc but might help somehow?

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Be interesting Tommy. 

 

Seems to me that the majority of people here have had no or few issues. It is just the select few, which unfortunately include myself.

 

However there is a reason for everything, it's just a case of identifying it. I'm wanting to continue using OA, so will keep digging around for answers.

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26 minutes ago, Alastair said:

Be interesting Tommy. 

 

Seems to me that the majority of people here have had no or few issues. It is just the select few, which unfortunately include myself.

 

However there is a reason for everything, it's just a case of identifying it. I'm wanting to continue using OA, so will keep digging around for answers.

 

I'd thought it may be the treatment one after the other, and it still may be, but @Stoney I think did the same with no obvious effect.

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15 hours ago, tommy dave said:

the good news is that it looks that there is something going on and that it's being raised.

bad news is the weak hive.

I'm going to hit oxalic/glycerine strips for the first time this late summer/autumn. I hope that i can contribute in some way. Happy to try any sensible suggested side-by-side approaches. Obviously will only be small sample size etc but might help somehow?

My advice would be to use as many hives as possible, even if it meant teaming up with someone else.

This is because a trial needs to overcome the effects of standard deviations within a sample.
One important fact Ive learned of from doing many Bee Trials is that the concept of a "control" group of Hives is easier said than achieved.
For example, imagine my confusion when an untreated control group of Hive started losing Mites at the same rate as the treated trial Hives.
That experience unraveled some preconceived ideas for sure, and who would have envisioned it happening?

These sort of unforeseen events underscore the need for trials using large numbers of Hives and over years not weeks.



 

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471855BA-E7DD-4F47-8B87-91F9D5DEB43C.jpeg

Well there ya go .... little bit behind the eight ball, but lotsa love , and some apitraz has almost got us there. These babies were on a roll today, not bad for taking two nucs plus a late split of them .....

Now, where was that honey flow ....?

8E64F06C-3E0F-4DBB-B01B-EC58590A9E7F.jpeg

Honey flow looks a bit dodgy in this neck of the woods for the next month or so .....

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1 hour ago, jamesc said:

Honey flow looks a bit dodgy in this neck of the woods for the next month or so ...

I hope that means weather will be good on the coast .

Have a clearer picture of rata flower . Probably a 70% flowering .

All the trees close around my hives are going to flower but I can see some trees coming into leaf .

I will be a good yr but not as good as two yrs ago .

Manuka is flowering as good as I have seen it in yrs .

No chance of it  being in the honey box , even though the weather has been hot , sunny and windless .

So many other things more yummy for bees to collect happening now .

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8 hours ago, kaihoka said:

even though the weather has been hot , sunny and windless .

 

Well there ya go.. never thought I’d ever get to quote you on this assembly of words kaihoka... 

boom.

 

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it would be good to get some reactions from others about length of the tapes if you have time to answer.

 

My hives are essentially single jumbo depth for brood with two inches of capped honey at the top of 300mm deep combs. I've been using Phil's tapes 600mm long to very good effect. But as others have said, sometimes this did divide the brood when I went down the middle. I know about putting them in a diamond pattern around the spherical brood cluster... but I worry about the brood contracting over autumn and losing contact with the treatments, so I wanted to ask about something else...

 

Are there bk's using FD singles and 400mm tapes? I presume there is a gap around the bottom of the tape for the queen to get to both sides without rubbing on the tape? Did anyone doing that still find brood only on one half of the hive? How big do you think that gap need to be in order to work?

 

I'm thinking about cutting some tapes to only 500mm instead of 600mm so that a 50mm gap is left for access. I might do some hives like that straight down the middle to see what happens. Unless there is a resounding "no". Maybe 400mm tapes are ideal for my case to provide a big gap around the bottom, but it looks really short I must say. So I guess this idea is to make the tapes as long as possible for a treatment to work, but also short enough to avoid dividing the hive. If I end up with less treatment in the hive due to the shorter strips I can compensate by putting two tapes in the middle of the brood instead of one.

 

Would it be fair to say that if Bayvarol strips were 238mm long that they too would also divide the brood in half?

 

Phil is no longer supplying 600mm long tapes, but he kindly sold me some rolls, so I can cut them to length to Jumbo depth. I'm thinking about what length(s) to use next once my current batch of 600mm tapes runs out..

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On 18/09/2019 at 8:47 PM, olbe said:

I now purchase my glycerine direct from bell booth in Palmerston North 200l at a time Shine USP/BP grade

Olbe, so where do you get your Glycerine from now as Bell Booths website shows that they've discontinued supply of the Shine product, no showing Ecolabs product. Is that the same grade?

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1 hour ago, StephenP said:

Olbe, so where do you get your Glycerine from now as Bell Booths website shows that they've discontinued supply of the Shine product, no showing Ecolabs product. Is that the same grade?

Try Farmlands.

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On 18/09/2019 at 8:47 PM, olbe said:

Jamesc Your choice of the farmlands glycerine may be the reason for your losses, the glycerine they sell now is very thin compared to the shine glycerine they used to sell.

 

I used to get my glyc from farmlands , but when they changed supplier the new product was a lot thinner and that puts the final solution out of kilter ( the solution leaches out of the strips)

Bee Good, Olbe mentioned that the Farmlands product is thinner.

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2 minutes ago, StephenP said:

Bee Good, Olbe mentioned that the Farmlands product is thinner.

Thats good to know, hadnt noticed any leaching at a 40% mix, I may still be using they old brew though, purchased mine 12 months ago.

It may be why its the cheapest out there.

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10 hours ago, StephenP said:

Olbe, so where do you get your Glycerine from now

 made my last purchase in spring, still have plenty left at this time, as has been posted there are other retailers out there, I would recommend using only pharmaceutical grade , especially if commercial.

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Thin GL from farmlands is for Dairy farms in cold climates, so Ive been told.

Clarks products stock food grade heavy GL made from Palm Kernel.

Its probably $4 per kg in a 25kg drum.


 

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On 20/01/2020 at 10:25 PM, dansar said:

I’m going to try a few hives with the strips cut in half. Suspended with a toothpick  and zigzagging them throughout the box. 

I used cardboard with toothpicks the bees often chewed around them and they fall down. Trying to find thinner card that will bend over the tops.

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